383 rebuild - kinda whimpy on the dyno?

JAndrea said

Yep, the rods were supposed to have been resurfaced and resized to the .010 under crank rod journals. Not having a good bore dial gauge, I didn’t measure, confirm, and document every single thing that I got back. Lesson learned.

I don’t know for sure, but I’m thinking everything should come apart for a good cleaning and confirmation of various component measurements, etc.

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Now need to have the rods checked and the crank journals. Everything disassembled and cleaned. You do not want bearing material floating around in your oiling system.

Did you get new rod bolts? New rod bolts are installed before rod resizing. Rod bore doesn’t change with a 0.010 crank, just the crank and the bearing change.

You may have to get the rods resized again since you spun a bearing. Those caps don’t look right, maybe it is an optical illusion with the damaged bearing. I have Eagle rods and the higher rated ARP rod bolts. My bottom end and oiling was designed for 8000rpm. Very important to use the right ARP lube and torque specs.

Do you know how to use plastigage? I check everything when I assemble.