Is it possible to keep old style electronic VR with a dual field alternator?
edit: Kit already got it. They're both Y wound. So its 3 phases rectified which ever way you do it.
Flickering or pulstating Headlights
Im chasing my tail, reading the two different wiring diagrams, trying to figure out what the heck was changed! And of course, really trying to keep the original look. Any suggestions?
(Pics attached)
Don't know what diagrams you're looking at but this is definately wrong. The suggestions made are correct.
Wire it up back the way it was, and make a small jumper wire that goes from the 2nd field of the alternator and ground it to the case of the alternator.
Maybe this is hard to visualize but that's all that's needed.
A common way of grounding one terminal.
However if you want a more hidden method you can use a copper washer under the brush like I did here:
Alternator repair, a little show and tell.
Is it possible to keep the original looking VR and use the dual field alternator? Not sure how to make the circuit work.
To finish answering the wiring - Return it to original.
Lets look at how 'single field' regulator works. Key on, system power is available at the regulator. If the voltage is low, it lets current flow through with no restriction. When voltage get too high, it interupts the flow. In between is restricted flow.
The second field terminal is the ground terminal. That's all there is to it.
Field is shorthand for magnetic field. The rotor windings create a magnetic field when electricity flows through them.
Using a dual field round back alternator since I'm running electronic ignition, which is hidden.
'70 - '71 were the only years with two terminal roundbacks like the one shown above.
The instructions for adding the Chrysler electronic ignition was to use an electronic regulator. Apparently the mechanical switching was too noisy or not tight enough control for the Chrysler ECU. In any event you should be fine on that front.
Problem is: not charging. Ammeter stays centered until eventually battery discharges. Voltmeter across the battery verifies same.
Sounds like something else is miswired.
Engine off, or alternator not working, the ammeter shows the current flowing out of the battery run
anything and everything except the starter.
When the alternator system is working, the ammeter shows only the current for battery charging. Once the battery is charged it shows zero.