Voltage problems, cutting out when hot
I am hoping you guys may be able to assist me with the charging problems I’m having with my 1974 Dodge Dart Sport.
I did the parallel wiring as detailed in older posts as I have on all of my B and E Bodies, I went through all of the wiring harnesses in the car and made repairs where needed (really in good shape for a rat infested desert car)
I’m running a 1998 360 Magnum with original serpentine front drive from truck. It has a new replacement alternator that I believe is a 90amp.
What brings me to the question at hand is when driving after the car gets up to temperature it starts cutting out hard under acceleration, at idle it seems ok but not exactly right.
This led me to replace the coil, orange box and adding the .5 ballast.
Drove again with the same results, when cold it runs fine, once hot (normal opp. Temp) it cuts out hard under moderate acceleration.
This led me to test readings at the coil, (coil so hot you can’t touch it) relay and add grounds everywhere. (IGN. Box, volt reg. Block to body
I am running dual fans on dual 70amp relays with Dakota Digital PAC-2750 controller, ac is not hooked up as yet.
Pro-Comp distributor, MSD blaster .8 ohm coil with .8 ballast in conjunction with the OE 5.0ohm ballast (original 4 pin ballast), new Packers 8.0mm low resistance plug wires, MP orange box. New voltage regulator.
Before doing the parallel wiring to the amateur the gauge was reading over charge all the time with alternator output being 15.5 V and battery showing 15.4 V.
After running the parallel wiring ( eight gauge wire from alternator to ammeter and 10 gauge wire from amateur to starter relay lug with 14 gauge fusible link ) the gauge now reads large discharge at startup then quickly recovers and sits just under the center line as if it is now discharging slightly at idle. As soon as it gets up to temperature the fans kick on and it hits discharge fairly hard, not fluctuating and not buried but at the second line on the gauge.
Here are pictures of Volt readings at different areas and see if there is anything I am missing.
As stated above, I’ve done this in the past without problems and removing the fans from the equation does not make a difference. (Except for readings when they do run)
Thanks for any advice in advance as always.
Running at batt
Running at alt
Not running, key on +
Not running key on -
Key on
Key on
Key on
Key on
Key on not running
I am hoping you guys may be able to assist me with the charging problems I’m having with my 1974 Dodge Dart Sport.
I did the parallel wiring as detailed in older posts as I have on all of my B and E Bodies, I went through all of the wiring harnesses in the car and made repairs where needed (really in good shape for a rat infested desert car)
I’m running a 1998 360 Magnum with original serpentine front drive from truck. It has a new replacement alternator that I believe is a 90amp.
What brings me to the question at hand is when driving after the car gets up to temperature it starts cutting out hard under acceleration, at idle it seems ok but not exactly right.
This led me to replace the coil, orange box and adding the .5 ballast.
Drove again with the same results, when cold it runs fine, once hot (normal opp. Temp) it cuts out hard under moderate acceleration.
This led me to test readings at the coil, (coil so hot you can’t touch it) relay and add grounds everywhere. (IGN. Box, volt reg. Block to body
I am running dual fans on dual 70amp relays with Dakota Digital PAC-2750 controller, ac is not hooked up as yet.
Pro-Comp distributor, MSD blaster .8 ohm coil with .8 ballast in conjunction with the OE 5.0ohm ballast (original 4 pin ballast), new Packers 8.0mm low resistance plug wires, MP orange box. New voltage regulator.
Before doing the parallel wiring to the amateur the gauge was reading over charge all the time with alternator output being 15.5 V and battery showing 15.4 V.
After running the parallel wiring ( eight gauge wire from alternator to ammeter and 10 gauge wire from amateur to starter relay lug with 14 gauge fusible link ) the gauge now reads large discharge at startup then quickly recovers and sits just under the center line as if it is now discharging slightly at idle. As soon as it gets up to temperature the fans kick on and it hits discharge fairly hard, not fluctuating and not buried but at the second line on the gauge.
Here are pictures of Volt readings at different areas and see if there is anything I am missing.
As stated above, I’ve done this in the past without problems and removing the fans from the equation does not make a difference. (Except for readings when they do run)
Thanks for any advice in advance as always.
Running at batt
Running at alt
Not running, key on +
Not running key on -
Key on
Key on
Key on
Key on
Key on not running