Qa1 upper control arm and moog offset bushing help
I want my tires straight the .5 negative camber on the driver side is visually ridiculous looking tires look like this /|
I don’t believe the frame is bent as the k memeber bolts to the front frame so if there was a bend issue bolting the kmember in place woulda caused issues. Just a thought that there could be a tweak there as I’ve read some Abody a have issues getting positive camber due to a slightly rolled frame corner. The ride height has been set to where it needs to be. The right control arm is maxed out literally to its full reach so lowering any more does nothing!!!!!! I want the ability to get neutral or positive camber on the driver side or what good is it if I have to keep negative camber for life. Needs to be fixed with the offset bushings a frame roll or hoping the small to big ball joint swap will correct on the 73 up spindle
Well, I don’t know what to tell you. The QA1 arms are designed to give you a proper alignment for radial tires. Which means, they are
designed to give slightly negative camber because that’s what radial tires are supposed to have. So, if you’re getting negative camber they’re literally doing what they were designed to do, and the “good” is having the proper alignment for the tires you’re running.
You should not be setting 0 or positive camber with radial tires. And you can barely see a 1/2 degree of camber I either direction anyway. They really only start to look cambered when you get close to 1 degree. And regardless, you should be more concerned with your car having a proper alignment and handling than what the tires look like with a very small amount of negative camber.
Switching to large ball joint UCA’s will change nothing by itself, that’s not causing your problem. If you switched back to factory UCA’s it might help, but again that’s because they were designed for bias ply tire alignment specs. Which will give you a squirrelly feeling if used with radial tires, because they’re the wrong specs.
Saying that ride height is “where it needs to be” says nothing about where it actually IS, so, not helpful in trying to diagnose a possible suspension geometry problem.
The frame could be bent and still have the K bolt in place, one doesn’t exclude the other. But I’m more inclined to think the “problem” is that you’re trying to set the wrong alignment specs for the parts that you’re using.