Solved with a Meter Match Fuel Tank Sending Unit/Fuel Float Adjustmet

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sgrip65

66 Dart GT 273, 65 Dart GT 273 HiPo
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Hello Members. I need some help on my 65 Dart fuel tank Float/fuel gauge/fuel tank sending unit adjustment. I know that the tank was at, or near, empty when I put nine gallons in the tank. The tank's capacity is right around eighteen gallons, so the gauge should show half full. I have a new sending unit installed in the tank, and the gauge shows just under a quarter tank. Can the float be adjusted, or the sending unit be calibrated differently than what the manufacturer has done? I have installed a new IVR-4 voltage limiter, from Real Time Engineering, for the gauges, and the old voltage limiter in the gas gauge has been disabled. Thanks for any help on this. sgrip65
 
I don’t know for sure on early a’s, but the replacement senders on later years are designed differently than the OEM ones. The replacement ones are square in shape (the wire wound part) and are linear. The OEM ones are more of an hourglass shape and are nonlinear. You can’t really adjust the float to solve the problem.

I bought a Meter Match and got mine working pretty good. I also built a calibration box to calibrate the Meter Match. I can help you with it if you need & send you the box if you want.

There are a ton of threads on this. I would read up on it here. I learned a lot from them.
 
I don’t know for sure on early a’s, but the replacement senders on later years are designed differently than the OEM ones. The replacement ones are square in shape (the wire wound part) and are linear. The OEM ones are more of an hourglass shape and are nonlinear. You can’t really adjust the float to solve the problem.

I bought a Meter Match and got mine working pretty good. I also built a calibration box to calibrate the Meter Match. I can help you with it if you need & send you the box if you want.

There are a ton of threads on this. I would read up on it here. I learned a lot from them.

Let me do some research on these threads. Thanks for the input and the offer. sgrip65
 
I don’t know for sure on early a’s, but the replacement senders on later years are designed differently than the OEM ones. The replacement ones are square in shape (the wire wound part) and are linear. The OEM ones are more of an hourglass shape and are nonlinear. You can’t really adjust the float to solve the problem.

I bought a Meter Match and got mine working pretty good. I also built a calibration box to calibrate the Meter Match. I can help you with it if you need & send you the box if you want.

There are a ton of threads on this. I would read up on it here. I learned a lot from them.

Linear Board.jpg


Non-Linear Board.jpg
 
Is anyone making or selling the correct one ?
Not that I'm aware of.
There are several rebuilders of the OEM type out there. All aftermarket senders are linear. If your lucky you might find an OEM one; otherwise you need the MeterMatch unit.
 
Seems like I have seen threads on OEM senders & rebuilds on here. Not sure if they all required you to have a core.
 
Back when I put my new tank in , it and the sending unit were deteriorated too bad to mess with ,junked them both.
I have a 2012 mopar magazine that has an add for "vans auto' that advertises orginal pick ups, think I`m gonna research that a little -

Bob, If you find that information, let me know. Thanks for your time. sgrip65
 
Mopar fuel gauge levels:

L = 73.7 Ohms
M = 23.0 Ohms
H = 10.2 Ohms

meter your new pickup on a DMM and check against these known values. Get yourself a potentiometer (volume control) and rig it up to a DMM. Turn it and find where these ranges are and then attach it to your fuel gauge. Emulate these values again, moving the dial and see where they end up. you may be able to get the range dialed in with a few inline resistors.
 
Last edited:
Hello jimjimjimmy
What was the issue with "Tri -Star" ?
Any fellow FABO members have input or concerns from the other two listed?
Instrument Specialties
Fuel Senders

Thanks in advance,
Happy Mopar :)
Arron



its a long story I explained it in another thread but he basically ruined my sending unit and screwed up the shipping , cost me over 200 bucks . I could of ruined it myself for nothing .
 
its a long story I explained it in another thread but he basically ruined my sending unit and screwed up the shipping , cost me over 200 bucks . I could of ruined it myself for nothing .

Thanks jimjimjimmy,
Truly sorry to here that.
Thanks for the info. Hope this helps in the future for fellow Mopar owners looking for good repair shops.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron.
 
Mopar fuel gauge levels:

L = 73.7 Ohms
M = 23.0 Ohms
H = 10.2 Ohms

meter your new pickup on a DMM and check against these known values. Get yourself a potentiometer (volume control) and rig it up to a DMM. Turn it and find where these ranges are and then attach it to your fuel gauge. Emulate these values again, moving the float and see where they end up. you may be able to get the range dialed in with a few inline resistors.

Pishta. Good information. I will keep this in my notes. Appreciated. sgrip65
 
If the non linear values are needed, why not just wrap your own curved board? Seems the shape of the board would dictate the 'slope' of the resistance value.
 
If anyone identifies a source for the nichrome to rewind our own boards, that would be great.

For repair places, add John Wolf & Co to the list.

The other problem with the replacements is the float arm length.
See Fuel Sending Units and A-Body Fuel Tank Map
also seen in the following thread where
@Cuda Al shows his repair in detail -
Fuel Sender Rebuild

as does this How to article (except he gave up on fixing a board with busted wire )
OEM Fuel Sender Repair 1967 Dart

As far as which arm and pickup tube goes with what year
In the mid sixties to the early seventies the part number was 2421493.
From around 1973 to 1975 or early 1976 the number was changed to 3621515. Then Chrysler changed the number to 4051004.
When they went to the newest number, the float was plastic. I recall seeing a Chrysler memo telling why they changed to plastic floats. They said because of brass corrosion caused by small amounts of moisture in the fuel they changed floats to plastic.

Part numbers I looked up in the FSMs were:
1967 p/n 2257 493
1973 p/n 3621 615

Several changes in fuel formulation in th 70s. One of them may have resulted in greater reaction with brass.
 
If anyone identifies a source for the nichrome to rewind our own boards, that would be great.

For repair places, add John Wolf & Co to the list.

The other problem with the replacements is the float arm length.
See Fuel Sending Units and A-Body Fuel Tank Map
also seen in the following thread where
@Cuda Al shows his repair in detail -
Fuel Sender Rebuild

as does this How to article (except he gave up on fixing a board with busted wire )
OEM Fuel Sender Repair 1967 Dart

As far as which arm and pickup tube goes with what year
"In the mid sixties to the early seventies the part number was 2421493.
From around 1973 to 1975 or early 1976 the number was changed to 3621515.
Then Chrysler changed the number to 4051004. When they went to the newest number, the float was plastic. I recall seeing a Chrysler memo telling why they changed to plastic floats. They said because of brass corrosion caused by small amounts of moisture in the fuel they changed floats to plastic."

Part numbers I looked up in the FSMs were:
1967 p/n 2257 493
1973 p/n 3621 615

Several changes in fuel formulation in th 70s. One of them may have resulted in greater reaction with brass.
We chatted earlier about this subject. If you can start a thread with links to threads, websites, and repair sites I can make it a sticky. PM me to discuss.
 
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