Respectfully request what to look for when shopping for a used carb
I bought a running ( I watched on test stand $250) 1978? 360 engine to test my wiring, and carbs, etc. on for these roller project cars so I don’t test a prepped engine build with break-in with unreliable, parts-achieving that 20 minutes, variable > 2000RPM break in without interruption.
Here's the thing - there is no load on the engine when run on a test stand. To do what you are asking just needs a carb that works from 0 (idle) to
maybe 20% throttle opening. You need a 4 bbl mostly cause it will match the intake - might as well be the same configuration.
Which is how I would test the carb, but I don’t have any experience tuning. Will probably buy O2 sensors and anything else (how expensive is a wide band??? Sensor) needed against reasonable cost.
No. Test the carb on a something else. Break in is not the time to find float stuck or gasket leaking.
$200, bolt on and adjust I guess, but without any adjusting experience. Thanks
I'm not old but old enough to think 200 is a lot for a used carb.
You will have to do some adjusting when firing up - but basically they're all the same for what you need; enough idle speed to keep it running, get the choke off before it starts to die (you'll hear it and see it on a tach) then turn down the idle and if need be slightly adjust the mixture screws. Jets and rods aren't going to matter when running it in neutral. More important, check the ignition timing.
Isn’t there 2 different ways to setup/buy the pressure regulators? With or without return line-the first being much more expensive?
6 psi correct?
6 would be good, 5 would be good, 3 would be OK but at idle low for a mechanical pump.
If you're using a mechanical pump, get one that has the correct return spring and then a second regulator isn't needed.
Yes there are two ways. The cheapest way is a restricting regulator in the feed line (between pump and carb). A variation on that has a return from the regulator to the tank.
The other way a regulator after the carburetor inlets - it opens when pressure is exceed and the fuel goes to a return line to the tank.
I did get a 3310 or is it 3311 and will try it out to, but want to try one of the new Edelbrocks.
Probably a List 3310. You could use it.
First investment should be to buy a cheap (used) copy of Urich & Fisher.
Amazon.com: Buying Choices: Holley Carburetors & Manifolds: HPBooks-339
Read the first sections about how a downdraft carb works.
Carter's work about the same way - just some differences in execution.
Much of which is explained in the Chrysler Tech books and films.
like this one:
Carburetion Fundamentals & Facts (Session 273) from the Master Technician's Service Conference
1970 Carburetion Fundamentals and Facts from The Master Technician Service Conference Series (Session 273)