CHOOSING THE RIGHT TORQUE CONVERTER

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Frodee

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HI all was wondering what type of torque converter would best suit my needs.
I am not up on figuring what would be the best way to go so any help would be appreciated.
Here is the specs on what I'm dealing with...
1973 904 with a Blue Print 408 stroker pumping out 470 HP and 500 on the torque.
This is a Magnum block and running an LA crank from what I know so the converter will need to be neutral balance. stall speed of about 2,200 is what Blue Print recommend I believe.
I'm not doing any 1/4 mile racing for the most part, mostly not wanting to blow my tranny
bolting on a pair of slicks. Plan on driving it around on the road and having a good time.
Here is the factory dyno. read out.
 
If you are settled on your build and don't see many changes to the powertrain, then calling PTC or Ultimate, or the company of your choice and having them custom build a TC for your car would be best.
 
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If you are settled on your build and don't see many changes to the powertrain, then calling PTC or Ultimate, or the company of your choice and having them custom build a TC for your car would be best.
Thanks I didn't know they would.
 
I have A 10" TCI 3500 and it will flash to 4000 rpm. Mind you i am making 516 tq at 2900 rpm. 3.73 gears and a 275/60/15 drag radial, car is 3330 with me in it.
It's a 100% street car, converter behaves like a stock converter until you lean on it, doesn't make extreme heat or slip.
 
I have A 10" TCI 3500 and it will flash to 4000 rpm. Mind you i am making 516 tq at 2900 rpm. 3.73 gears and a 275/60/15 drag radial, car is 3330 with me in it.
It's a 100% street car, converter behaves like a stock converter until you lean on it, doesn't make extreme heat or slip.
Are you running a 727 ? That converter sounds good.
 
HI all was wondering what type of torque converter would best suit my needs.
I am not up on figuring what would be the best way to go so any help would be appreciated.
Here is the specs on what I'm dealing with...
1973 904 with a Blue Print 408 stroker pumping out 470 HP and 500 on the torque.
This is a Magnum block and running an LA crank from what I know so the converter will need to be neutral balance. stall speed of about 2,200 is what Blue Print recommend I believe.
I'm not doing any 1/4 mile racing for the most part, mostly not wanting to blow my tranny
bolting on a pair of slicks. Plan on driving it around on the road and having a good time.
Here is the factory dyno. read out.
You won't have fun with a 2200 made for a truck. Get a 3000-3500. Factory 340's were 3200 the brake stalled at around 2800- 3000 flashed at 3200-3500
 
You won't have fun with a 2200 made for a truck. Get a 3000-3500. Factory 340's were 3200 the brake stalled at around 2800- 3000 flashed at 3200-3500
Thanks I am not real smart when it comes to setting up my engine and need all the help I can get.
 
Anywhere in the 2600/2800-3200 is safe for a high performance t.c.. More then that will cause too much heat while cruising . Les than that it won't move onto its power band enough . IMO When it's all said and done it comes down to what you are going to use it for .
 
1200 - 2400 is more like stock.

Tell the guy to get a stock 340 convertor and he will be mfk'n your name left and right everytime he floors it from a stop..and when that 408 balloons the thing...they love to hit crank bolts and crack and leak.

I had a built slant 6 and ballooned a stock converter. Youre killing me here.
 
What does BluePrint recommend ? -- Check with JohnyMac, on this site.
 
HI all was wondering what type of torque converter would best suit my needs.
I am not up on figuring what would be the best way to go so any help would be appreciated.
Here is the specs on what I'm dealing with...
1973 904 with a Blue Print 408 stroker pumping out 470 HP and 500 on the torque.
This is a Magnum block and running an LA crank from what I know so the converter will need to be neutral balance. stall speed of about 2,200 is what Blue Print recommend I believe.
I'm not doing any 1/4 mile racing for the most part, mostly not wanting to blow my tranny
bolting on a pair of slicks. Plan on driving it around on the road and having a good time.
Here is the factory dyno. read out.
I believe when I read the specs on the blue print engine that it’s very similar to my build. I run the converter and I’m very happy with it.
Street Racer Series Torque Converter - 9.5" for 727 - TF8
 
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What does BluePrint recommend ? -- Check with JohnyMac, on this site.

There's so much to be gained by calling a reputable converter company and running them through your build, cam specs, weight, etc. I won't buy an "off the shelf" converter based on just advertising rating. As stated above, a good quality converter can flash high, but still behave "normal" under normal diving conditions. A cheap converter can absolutely KILL a build.
if you're looking to milk every last drop of performance out of it, i would call ATI and get a customer made converter. (there are other quality brands out there too but i havent used them)

if you're looking for a good street converter, and still want them to ask the right questions, and get you setup with an economical but MATCHED converter, i like Performance automatic in delaware.

do NOT put a stock converter of any kind, behind ANY engine we make. I don't care what "hemi" or "340" it came with..I don't want it behind our engines.
#1 its OLD, and god knows if its "good"
#2 i want to see a new, correct balance flexplate on our engines.
#3 dont want people incorrectly guessing if/why/what weight is on their "used" converter, flexplate, etc. to pair it with our engines.
 
t

There's so much to be gained by calling a reputable converter company and running them through your build, cam specs, weight, etc. I won't buy an "off the shelf" converter based on just advertising rating. As stated above, a good quality converter can flash high, but still behave "normal" under normal diving conditions. A cheap converter can absolutely KILL a build.
if you're looking to milk every last drop of performance out of it, i would call ATI and get a customer made converter. (there are other quality brands out there too but i havent used them)

if you're looking for a good street converter, and still want them to ask the right questions, and get you setup with an economical but MATCHED converter, i like Performance automatic in delaware.

do NOT put a stock converter of any kind, behind ANY engine we make. I don't care what "hemi" or "340" it came with..I don't want it behind our engines.
#1 its OLD, and god knows if its "good"
#2 i want to see a new, correct balance flexplate on our engines.
#3 dont want people incorrectly guessing if/why/what weight is on their "used" converter, flexplate, etc. to pair it with our engines.
I planed on asking you but I know you have been busy so I am trying to get a little education on what is what. I plan on doing it right I just don't know anything about doing it right.
 
To be honest, unless you're building a track only car where you need to run on an index, any out of the box 3500 stall from a brand name company is going to get you what you need.
 
To be honest, unless you're building a track only car where you need to run on an index, any out of the box 3500 stall from a brand name company is going to get you what you need.
Any??
T/M/L
Turbo action has 3 stages of the same convertor, for instance.
Not any convertor, no way.
 
I had no idea how much a torque converter could affect an engine and running gear.
I'm learning and thank all of you for your comments.
We all have or expertise and mine is not here.
 
Likely you call any converter company and tell them what you have you'll be looking at a 10" or 9.5" 3500+/- standard converter. It will not be some special fin angle just for your combo built converter. It'll be one they crank out and sell tons of, off the shelf. Racing or more serious setup is a different story.....along with pricing! :eek: If you called called Turbo Action, tell them what you have and its intended use, I bet you'll end up with an S-800 17805ST (10" Tight) and you'd be very happy. Jmo of course:thumbsup:
 
I too was no expert. Back when I 1st put my dart together bought a economy high stall converter from Dacco. Was about 2600-2800 but felt tighter and was not very impressed by it's performance. When I switched it out for the 9.5" FTI 3400-3600 stall converter what a stark difference! Car came alive. I had the 280/474 mopar cam and it thanked me!!:D
 
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