Removed original voltage regulator and now it wont start
Took out wires you didn’t need anymore? That right there would be where I would start, except to get a wiring diagram for your car. Sounds like you’re trying to run a GM style single wire alternator and eliminate the ballast system. It can be done, but you need to understand how the Mopar ballast system works.
As for the 100a alternator, the early A cars and the wiring in place are used to 28a of alternator current, maxing at 35a. And, all of the power goes directly through the bulkhead and through the ammeter guage. At least do the voltmeter bypass before too long.
Not quite. All the power for recharging the battery goes through the ammeter. When the battery is done charging, the ammeter shows zero.
Agree it could be a GM style but I think there are Chrysler types with internal regulators stuffed in them too.
Either way, there's usually no advantage for a car, and the disadvantage of of sensing voltage at the source rather than close to the distribution point.
Electric fans can be a bit of a problem with the stock wiring strategy. If you rarely or never run them with the engine off, then power them directly off the alternator. What will be needed is an alternator that can provide that extra power
at idle rpm. If its a street car, that means enough power for ignition, lights, brake lights, and the fans. Otherwise it will draw down the battery every the car is stopped at a light or stuck in traffic. How much will depend on the fan's power needs.
I followed the darts wiring diagram so i could see which wires were originally used to hook up the alternator since my new one i have hooked up using the 1-wire system and have it connected to the battery, my long term plan is to upgrade my wiring harness since i plan to add an electric fan and a few other accessories. My issue that one of the alternators wires connectes to the external regulator on the fld side and when i disconnected it still turned over but when i disconnected the dark blue ignition wire it wont turn on, those alternator wires and dark blue ignition wire are the only ones i have taken off/disconnected.
Field is shorthand for magnetic field. On a '65 there should be one field wire from the regulator to the rotor. The regulator controls the current to the rotor. There is a grounded brush for the field that completes the circuit.
Ignition is the run circuit. The ignition wire(s) supplies power to both the ignition and the alternator's regulator when the key is in run position.
An internally regulated 'one wire' alternator will have an internal junction to draw current from the output. Probably need to put a kill switch on it to shut it down. They're used on tractors and such, as well as by some hot rodders - especially for early cars.