Has anyone successfully used the USCartool A500 Crossmember?
That flat piece contributes virtually nothing to the structure you've removed, regardless of what others 'get away with' and regardless of adding subframe connectors or anything else, assuming you're still running torsion bars.
Think about it like this: let's call the factory crossmember an 'n'.
The torsion bars are anchored on the legs of the n. The twisting motion from suspension action (reminder, equal and opposite reaction) is transmitted to the legs of the n by the torsion bars. The strength on the n comes from the thickness of the n as you look at it from the front or rear. That piece you made is 1/4 thick. The factory cross member "thickness" (of the shape, not the metal) is what, an inch? Inch and a quarter? Inch and a half?
And you reduced that, significantly. That piece you made doesn't bring that thickness back, and you can't because the transmission is in the way. Your best alternative is to replicate the n shape, but with thicker metal.
Explaining another way, cut a sheet of metal in a n shape, lay it flat on a table and try to bend it to touch the legs together while it stays flat (I.e. in plane). The metal keeps it's strength when the load applied to the edge, in the direction of the sheet (if that makes any sense at all.
The only reason the factory had the piece in there that you replicated is to hold the two n's parallel to each other so they can't buckle.
The photos with the b callouts is terrible.
What you want is thicker metal in section, like motor plate shown.
Subframe connectors don't do much. Rectangular box sections kinda stink in resisting twist along their own axis, and sure the car will go back together with the mods you've made but remember: strength and fatigue are two different things. That crossmember will flex more. More flex equals fatigue, which will work harden the metal and eventually result in cracks. The lower transmission mount crossmember adds some box section to the whole deal but if it's not designed and mounted properly, you went from bad to very dangerous!
I hope that makes sense and the pics load. I replied on my phone, which is terrible.
That flat piece contributes virtually nothing to the structure you've removed, regardless of what others 'get away with' and regardless of adding subframe connectors or anything else, assuming you're still running torsion bars.
Think about it like this: let's call the factory crossmember an 'n'.
The torsion bars are anchored on the legs of the n. The twisting motion from suspension action (reminder, equal and opposite reaction) is transmitted to the legs of the n by the torsion bars. The strength on the n comes from the thickness of the n as you look at it from the front or rear. That piece you made is 1/4 thick. The factory cross member "thickness" (of the shape, not the metal) is what, an inch? Inch and a quarter? Inch and a half?
And you reduced that, significantly. That piece you made doesn't bring that thickness back, and you can't because the transmission is in the way. Your best alternative is to replicate the n shape, but with thicker metal.
Explaining another way, cut a sheet of metal in a n shape, lay it flat on a table and try to bend it to touch the legs together while it stays flat (I.e. in plane). The metal keeps it's strength when the load applied to the edge, in the direction of the sheet (if that makes any sense at all.
The only reason the factory had the piece in there that you replicated is to hold the two n's parallel to each other so they can't buckle.
The photos with the b callouts is terrible.
What you want is thicker metal in section, like motor plate shown.
Subframe connectors don't do much. Rectangular box sections kinda stink in resisting twist along their own axis, and sure the car will go back together with the mods you've made but remember: strength and fatigue are two different things. That crossmember will flex more. More flex equals fatigue, which will work harden the metal and eventually result in cracks. The lower transmission mount crossmember adds some box section to the whole deal but if it's not designed and mounted properly, you went from bad to very dangerous!
I hope that makes sense and the pics load. I replied on my phone, which is terrible.
