T56 Conversion
Forgive me, I forgot to update this thread entirely.
So the very first step you are going to do BEFORE, i REPEAT BEFORE anything else, is make sure the trans is perfectly VERTICAL, not partially, not horizontal.
Do this BEFORE verifying the 31 tooth gear by removing the midplate. If you remove the midplate with the trans other than vertical, with the output shaft down, you will end up fighting this thing and cussing, ALOT!
For mine, I took the tall, homemade engine stand I have, and simply strapped it to it. There are companies that sell a special adapter plate that allows you to turn your engine stand into a transmission stand that will hold the trans vertical, but for me, it wasn't worth the 200 bucks. So I strapped it down and then for added safety, added some plastic shipping wrap and some 2x4s to keep everything nice and solidly secured.
Next step is to press on the input shaft bearing. This comes not installed and you have to do it. I found that a piece of 10-12 inch long, 1.75 inch exhaust tubing works perfectly. its fits over the shaft and matches up on the bearing. If you have a better kit, by all means use it, but I'm cheap and it worked. I used a Harbor Freight press and had it on in seconds.
Next step is to remove the midplate and the old LT1 shaft. The retaining bolts are 9/16s. You will have to wiggle the shafts a bit to get the input shafts out and then back in. Do not pry on the main or counter shafts, it doesn't take much and it'll go on. Then on the mid plate, make sure the bearing races are installed, I used the shims from the old LT1 midplate for the time being. Later, during the rebuild I will properly set the run out and shaft play, at which time I will update this to show how to do it.
To re-install the midplate, simply bolt it back together.
Couple other quick notes, keep the plugs from the LT1 midplate as the kit does not come with those and you will need to re-use them.
There is no gasket between the midplate and the case. Tremec FSM recommends a high temperature, black silicone, i used the "Right Stuff" from permatex that is formulated for gear oils as it met the same specs as the Tremec Brand called for.
Now, remember how I said to make sure the trans was perfectly vertical before removing the midplate? This is why. If you don't have the trans at vertical when you remove the midplate, the shifter rails will drop down and out of alignment. In order to get them re-installed, you'll need to remove the two bolts that align the rails. They are a true PITA to remove. They come factory with a heat activated thread sealant and have to be re-heated to be removed. If you find yourself needing to remove them, a plumber's torch, a good quality impact gun and a superior quality Torx bit in the T40 size is needed. I broke two Harbor Freight Torx Bits, a 20 year old craftsman bit and a couple Husky brand T40 bits trying to get them out. Finally, I paid the 40 bucks for the Snap-on diamond coated, high torque T40 bit, a single bit. That removed the bolts without a problem. The others wanted to bend, twist, snap and did not fit near as tight as the Snap-on, save the headache, buy the Snap on bit if you find yourself in this situation.
Lastly, one thing I found that was cool about the T56 shift, it has the same bolt pattern as the Mopar 833 shift handles. I was able to bolt up my Hurst Mini- Indy shifter right to it. I've got to get some longer M10 threaded bolts but it'll work just fine.
Forgive me, I forgot to update this thread entirely.
So the very first step you are going to do BEFORE, i REPEAT BEFORE anything else, is make sure the trans is perfectly VERTICAL, not partially, not horizontal.
Do this BEFORE verifying the 31 tooth gear by removing the midplate. If you remove the midplate with the trans other than vertical, with the output shaft down, you will end up fighting this thing and cussing, ALOT!
For mine, I took the tall, homemade engine stand I have, and simply strapped it to it. There are companies that sell a special adapter plate that allows you to turn your engine stand into a transmission stand that will hold the trans vertical, but for me, it wasn't worth the 200 bucks. So I strapped it down and then for added safety, added some plastic shipping wrap and some 2x4s to keep everything nice and solidly secured.
Next step is to press on the input shaft bearing. This comes not installed and you have to do it. I found that a piece of 10-12 inch long, 1.75 inch exhaust tubing works perfectly. its fits over the shaft and matches up on the bearing. If you have a better kit, by all means use it, but I'm cheap and it worked. I used a Harbor Freight press and had it on in seconds.
Next step is to remove the midplate and the old LT1 shaft. The retaining bolts are 9/16s. You will have to wiggle the shafts a bit to get the input shafts out and then back in. Do not pry on the main or counter shafts, it doesn't take much and it'll go on. Then on the mid plate, make sure the bearing races are installed, I used the shims from the old LT1 midplate for the time being. Later, during the rebuild I will properly set the run out and shaft play, at which time I will update this to show how to do it.
To re-install the midplate, simply bolt it back together.
Couple other quick notes, keep the plugs from the LT1 midplate as the kit does not come with those and you will need to re-use them.
There is no gasket between the midplate and the case. Tremec FSM recommends a high temperature, black silicone, i used the "Right Stuff" from permatex that is formulated for gear oils as it met the same specs as the Tremec Brand called for.
Now, remember how I said to make sure the trans was perfectly vertical before removing the midplate? This is why. If you don't have the trans at vertical when you remove the midplate, the shifter rails will drop down and out of alignment. In order to get them re-installed, you'll need to remove the two bolts that align the rails. They are a true PITA to remove. They come factory with a heat activated thread sealant and have to be re-heated to be removed. If you find yourself needing to remove them, a plumber's torch, a good quality impact gun and a superior quality Torx bit in the T40 size is needed. I broke two Harbor Freight Torx Bits, a 20 year old craftsman bit and a couple Husky brand T40 bits trying to get them out. Finally, I paid the 40 bucks for the Snap-on diamond coated, high torque T40 bit, a single bit. That removed the bolts without a problem. The others wanted to bend, twist, snap and did not fit near as tight as the Snap-on, save the headache, buy the Snap on bit if you find yourself in this situation.
Lastly, one thing I found that was cool about the T56 shift, it has the same bolt pattern as the Mopar 833 shift handles. I was able to bolt up my Hurst Mini- Indy shifter right to it. I've got to get some longer M10 threaded bolts but it'll work just fine.
