Gas Pedal Conversion?
OK. There is absolutely no reason to modify your factory V8 firewall throttle bracket setup. It's what I have in my 65 Barracuda and has plenty of travel to fully open any four barrel. If you don't have enough travel, it's one of two problems: 1. the throttle cable is attached to the carb at the wrong spot; or 2. the throttle cable is bolted to the manifold bracket at the wrong place. As for (1), your carb has a lever bradded to the front throttle shaft. The farther you attach the throttle cable from the throttle shaft, the more cable travel you need to fully open the carb. If your running a generic, non-Mopar specific carb, whether Edelbrock or Holley, there is no Mopar-correct attaching point on the carb for the throttle cable. You have to either drill a new hole, or (better), get an inexpensive Mopar adapter that will have the correct cable attachment location. I've seen many installations with the throttle cable hooked to the carb any old place and there's no way to get full throttle travel. As for (2), once you know the throttle cable is attached to the carb at the proper spot, then you just need to figure out where it should attach to the manifold bracket. This is simple: Just loosen the attaching bolt, then pull the body of the cable rearward until the carb just begins to open. Then let it slacken slightly to the point just before the carb opens. That is where the body of the cable need to be bolted to the manifold bracket. If the bracket you have is in the wrong place, just cut it, move it to the right place, and weld it back together. Pix below are, first, the 340 in my 65 Barracuda. Since it has the Holley adapter and the factory 340 4-barrel manifold bracket, it all works without modification. Second pic is the slant six in my 63 Valiant, where I modified a factory 2-barrel bracket to work with a 4 barrel. Notice it has been cut just below the cable attaching bracket and welded back together about half an inch or so forward. Because this is an automatic car, I also had to modify the kickdown linkage, which in my case meant lengthening the flat kickdown lever coming off the carb by cutting the original 2-barrel lever and welding a portion of a 400 ci 4-barrel lever to it. Obviously, I measured before cutting and welding. (Also, because I was using a seventies style kickdown in a 63, I also cut the rod going down to the trans and welded it to the cut-off original 63 rod.) I don't know how difficult this sounds in writing, but for me, it's simpler and works better than aftermarket cable setups - and a lot of them are installed incorrectly.
OK. There is absolutely no reason to modify your factory V8 firewall throttle bracket setup. It's what I have in my 65 Barracuda and has plenty of travel to fully open any four barrel. If you don't have enough travel, it's one of two problems: 1. the throttle cable is attached to the carb at the wrong spot; or 2. the throttle cable is bolted to the manifold bracket at the wrong place. As for (1), your carb has a lever bradded to the front throttle shaft. The farther you attach the throttle cable from the throttle shaft, the more cable travel you need to fully open the carb. If your running a generic, non-Mopar specific carb, whether Edelbrock or Holley, there is no Mopar-correct attaching point on the carb for the throttle cable. You have to either drill a new hole, or (better), get an inexpensive Mopar adapter that will have the correct cable attachment location. I've seen many installations with the throttle cable hooked to the carb any old place and there's no way to get full throttle travel. As for (2), once you know the throttle cable is attached to the carb at the proper spot, then you just need to figure out where it should attach to the manifold bracket. This is simple: Just loosen the attaching bolt, then pull the body of the cable rearward until the carb just begins to open. Then let it slacken slightly to the point just before the carb opens. That is where the body of the cable need to be bolted to the manifold bracket. If the bracket you have is in the wrong place, just cut it, move it to the right place, and weld it back together. Pix below are, first, the 340 in my 65 Barracuda. Since it has the Holley adapter and the factory 340 4-barrel manifold bracket, it all works without modification. Second pic is the slant six in my 63 Valiant, where I modified a factory 2-barrel bracket to work with a 4 barrel. Notice it has been cut just below the cable attaching bracket and welded back together about half an inch or so forward. Because this is an automatic car, I also had to modify the kickdown linkage, which in my case meant lengthening the flat kickdown lever coming off the carb by cutting the original 2-barrel lever and welding a portion of a 400 ci 4-barrel lever to it. Obviously, I measured before cutting and welding. (Also, because I was using a seventies style kickdown in a 63, I also cut the rod going down to the trans and welded it to the cut-off original 63 rod.) I don't know how difficult this sounds in writing, but for me, it's simpler and works better than aftermarket cable setups - and a lot of them are installed incorrectly.