Replacement Radiator Help and Alum vs OEM style

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I have a 500 440 source stroker kit 10:8 to 1. I live in New England so I don't usually see the temps. you have out there. I know the Champs aren't show pieces but very affordable. I thought with the bigger size (C-body) radiator you might be safe. Just throwing it out there. I have the narrow stock size Radiator in mine.
 
This is no help but mine looks almost like urs and hasn't leaked for about 6-7ish yrs .. -----griffin 28x19 crossflow , griffin makes good stuff !!View attachment 1715433601
Bob,
Was this an off the shelf or custom and is that the Overall size.
Looked thru their catalog and on the phone with Griffin now, Any chance you've got a part # on your 28 x 19 Rad was this one of their $400 or $800 Rads.
 
Bob,
Was this an off the shelf or custom and is that the Overall size.
Looked thru their catalog and on the phone with Griffin now, Any chance you've got a part # on your 28 x 19 Rad was this one of their $400 or $800 Rads.
\
Not custom , bought it from Summit , via ebay , wasn't near as hi as they are now . I really don't remember its been so long, seems like around $200ish back when I bought it, it`s about 7-8 yrs old. Typical griffin ford/mopar crossflow ,
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IMG_0474 (1).JPG
even bought the shroud for it later, but have totally reworked the shroud about 5 times experimenting with diff fan set ups. never have noticed a part # on it tho .
 
As usual got distracted by another project today but started getting ready to mount the OEM shroud to the New Rad and realized the standoff where the Shroud mounts is much different on the New Rad which will leave a big gap at the Top and Bottom which isn't optimal by any means. I've included pics of Old and New for comparison. I could braze an equal height panel in on the top and bottom but jeeez this is getting pretty involved or I can just mount it as is.....Any thoughts and No Wise Cracks from the Cold Case Guy as my meat already hurts from stepping on it..Ha Ha ha

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I would attempt to fill those gaps/seal them with something, if at all possible. You want to draw as much air through the fins on the front of the radiator as possible, to optimize your cooling.
 
If the c body one you have fits well, bring it to local rad shop, and have them do it. The last one i had recored, tanks split and increased the capacity. Still brass and copper. I also had them recore an a-100 rad into high efficiency 4 core to handle the 392 stroker in those tight quarters. I guess the rad shop dissuaded me from aluminum
 
If the c body one you have fits well, bring it to local rad shop, and have them do it. The last one i had recored, tanks split and increased the capacity. Still brass and copper. I also had them recore an a-100 rad into high efficiency 4 core to handle the 392 stroker in those tight quarters. I guess the rad shop dissuaded me from aluminum

Had the same thought but Rad shop I brought it to said it was too damaged to repair and I kinda had to agree. It wasn't just a small leak or bend where it was impacted on the bottom it literally pushed up all the way to the top deforming essentially the entire rad.


69'Cuda Unmothballed 12.4.19-6.jpg
69'Cuda Unmothballed 12.4.19-7.jpg
69'Cuda Unmothballed 12.4.19-8.jpg
 
Still Radless and was just about ready to shitcan the OEM clutch fan and shroud yesterday and plunk down a bunch of dinero for an Alum Rad, Shroud and Electric Fans unit when I stumbled across an old thread that mentioned a 1/2" shorter clutch fan unit made by Hayden #2765, $29.99 @Summit and I'll be able to use my existing fan.
SO I MAY HAVE, and I say this cautiously have resolved a big issue I had with clutch fan to Rad Core clearance when using an Alum replacement rad which it seems are all 3" Thick. Won't know for sure till I get over to the car today and take a new measurement.

Big block fan clutch
 
So, my rad shop has been around more than 30 yrs. Owner told me the only car he ever had to wrestle with was a 396 vega. Essentially, a full cooling system, rad, mech fan, core, thermo should maintain op temp. I had a lean motor that ran hot always. Adjusted the timing and it fixed my prob. 88 dak 400ci. I would start with shroud and make it a wind tunnel, ie block off anything not covered by shroud at this pt
 
Still Radless and was just about ready to shitcan the OEM clutch fan and shroud yesterday and plunk down a bunch of dinero for an Alum Rad, Shroud and Electric Fans unit when I stumbled across an old thread that mentioned a 1/2" shorter clutch fan unit made by Hayden #2765, $29.99 @Summit and I'll be able to use my existing fan.
SO I MAY HAVE, and I say this cautiously have resolved a big issue I had with clutch fan to Rad Core clearance when using an Alum replacement rad which it seems are all 3" Thick. Won't know for sure till I get over to the car today and take a new measurement.

Big block fan clutch

Kool Beans,
A)Distance from Radiator support mounting surface to water pump pulley mounting surface 6 1/16"
B) Hayden Viscous drive Clutch Fan Height = 2.670
C) Aluminum Rad width = 3.000

B + C = 5.670 - A = .390 Clearance

Fingers Crossed!

:)
 
Kool Beans,
A)Distance from Radiator support mounting surface to water pump pulley mounting surface 6 1/16"
B) Hayden Viscous drive Clutch Fan Height = 2.670
C) Aluminum Rad width = 3.000

B + C = 5.670 - A = .390 Clearance

Fingers Crossed!

:)

That seems to be a little tight for clearance to rad.....I am no fan flex expert, but your fan does flex when you apply heavy RPM's. Not sure if this flex or "growing" goes toward the rad or back to motor away from it. You may want to test without rad in for a moment and give 'er some throttle from under the hood and watch the fan.
 
That seems to be a little tight for clearance to rad.....I am no fan flex expert, but your fan does flex when you apply heavy RPM's. Not sure if this flex or "growing" goes toward the rad or back to motor away from it. You may want to test without rad in for a moment and give 'er some throttle from under the hood and watch the fan.

Certainly sage advice and always appreciative that people take the time to add their thoughts, comments and input to any dilemma that i've requested help with.

I will mention though that from back in the day when I had experimented with a flex fan I was always told that the fan blades would have more of a tendency to flatten when RPM's were introduced and that appeared to be the case that I witnessed with the Flex. The steel fans are pretty stout and I do not believe that they would flatten much but i'm hardly an fan blade flattening expert...Lol
That said, I was actually running less clearance than I'll have now on my prior combo and had done so for many years.
 
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