Total "bill of material" for Aluminum head swap / Advice on where to save $ welcome...

I guess we should ask, what is the intended use of the engine?

Also, I'd want to know what Aluminum heads they are using as well as the other components as well. Blueprint does have a good rep but if they are using different/cheaper/more cost effective parts, it wont be a true apples to apples comparison. For example, if they are using Speedmaster or Pro Comp heads, that cost less than half of what Trickflows do, then thats part of where the price savings for them is. Trickflows are amongst the best heads in the market but also priced accordingly. They aren't a cheap aluminum knock off of a factory head either. Not saying Blueprint is using low quality parts, but it does need to be asked.

Also, that $6399 is not for a complete engine it appears. So you're still gonna need probably another 1000-1200 in parts on top of that. Maybe more.

"
  • $6,399 Longblock Includes: Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers and individual dyno results
  • $7,299 Fully Dressed includes: Above plus Carburetor, intake manifold, distributor and harmonic balancer installed.
  • $7,799 Drop In Ready includes: Above plus waterpump, air cleaner, spark plugs and spark plug wires"


I'm not sure why people have that impression of the Edlebrock heads. I had mine spec'd by a good machine shop and and they didn't need a thing. Cost me 50 bucks for the task but that's the second set of Edlebrock heads I've owned, one each of SB and BB and neither have needed anything out of the box to work just fine. Any cylinder head you order should be checked out by a qualified shop. Cost is minimal but a good idea just to ensure quality control did their job. Yes, I'd even have the Trickflows checked.

You did miss roller lifters as well. That's any where from 400-700. You also didn't mention anything about the rotating assembly. What are your plans there?

As for your custom cam, call Oregon Cam Grinders. They have a great rep. They quoted me 75 for a regrind with a used core. They simply regrind the core to your specs. Or If I wanted a brand new cut one from a fresh blank, 150 bucks. Roller or Flat Tappet, same price. They also sell roller lifters for a better price as well.

Comp Cams have some decent roller rockers for about half the price of the Harland Sharps.

You can also save things on good quality used parts as well. Such as the intake, valve covers, carb etc. You don't always have to go name brand, or brand new either. Really depends on the engine.

Now, I'm building a 440 currently. After the machine costs, the head work and the rest, I'm gonna be in for about $4,000. If my combo turns out as good as the one I'm duplicating, I'm looking at around 550-600 hp with a modest compression ratio. Rarely do you find BB crate motors, but for something like that, they're usually about 8-10 grand.

Great info here. Thanks!

Use of the engine is general hooligan driving. Motor aside, the car is built to be as well-rounded as possible with suspension/brake upgrades, weight reduction and chassis mods. I'm really interested in a responsive motor that makes mid-400s and pulls to (or close to) 6k. So...more roadcourse than drag strip. I plan to never commute or be stuck in traffic in this car.

I was planning on leaving the bottom end alone though I realize that 6k is asking a lot of this rotating assembly and I would have to upgrade this sooner rather than later.

Good call on the lifters. I'd have to add that in...
Trickflow specifies the Harland-Sharp rockers. Part description says "must use." It sounded like there was something specific about those particular rockers but f there's a lower cost alternative, that would be helpful.

Yes, I was comparing the head swap on the current motor to the Blue Print long block because I'd likely be able to transfer my intake/carb/water pump/balancer etc. over to the new motor.

It looks like they do use Edelbrock heads so you're absolutely right that it's not an apples:apples comparison in that regard. IMO, because they dyno test the motor I wouldn't worry so much about some janky head castings causing flow problems. It's good to hear that the Edelbrock heads may not be as rough as I have heard though!

As for your big block build, how are you making that kind of power for so cheap? I know the OEM heads are pretty damn good on those engines...and IIRC the performance versions have forged cranks, right? But there certainly is no replacement for displacement. :)