Tame my 4-speed Stroker....

In the 9-10sec zone under 3500lbs, drag strip performance with a 'tamer is more about how the clutch pulls the engine down and not so much about materials. Iron friction material is generally going to last quite a bit longer than organic at the track, but organic/ceramic/iron are all capable of about the same results.

If you have synchros, the disc's MOI can have a huge effect on your ability to complete a hi-rpm shift. You especially don't want a disc with a lot of weight around it's outer diameter. Organic friction material is pretty lite, but a solid hub/carrier is going to be better for hi-rpm synchro shifting than a marcel/sprung hub design. Also puck style ceramic/iron is going to be a better choice than a long lasting but heavy full-face iron disc.

When it's a street/strip car, you may also want to factor in the clutch's street manners. Personally I can say that I prefer a dual friction disc for a street/strip car. Might require more frequent replacement than an iron at the drag strip, but when they can last a full season I consider the improved street manners worth the trade-off. Don't be surprised if it lasts several years of street/strip duty.

All that said, for a 'tamed street/strip car I recommend a standard lite steel flywheel, diaphragm PP with a ductile iron pressure ring, and a common dual friction disc. Affordable, commonly available, durable, that's what's in my car. Personally I prefer Ram, not sure how ebay cheapies would hold up considering my tach occasionally sees 8600.

Grant


Like you pointed out...once the disc weight starts getting a little bit heavier than a rag disc, you start running into issues shifting at RPM.

Then you need to get I the box and slick shift it, or you can pro shift it but that is real clunky.

Or, you can use Liberty rings. Or you can face plate it.

I'm seriously thinking I may face plate my junk...but I'm not having issues shifting right now. So..........but damn I like the idea.