4 post lift vs. 2 post lift. Pros and Cons.

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Here's a shot of how my 4-post fits in the shop. I can easily walk around it on either side to get out the door. Well, at least I can do that when I'm not all crapped up with clutter. Who put all this junk in my shop anyway?!? :mad:

The white boxes you see on the floor at the near end of the lift were made to match the height of the ramp when it's on the ground. I'm a wee bit vertically challenged, so these are a big help to stand on to work on stuff at floor level.

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plumkrazee70 said:
I don't have one, but alot of the 4 posts have the option of a jack that slides on a track underneath, for lifting tires.
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I do have the sliding jack tray, which solves the problem of jacking the wheel/tire up while it's on the lift. The problem I ran into is after jacking it up, how to put a jack stand under it as they don't fit well on the ramp. I made a load-bearing insert for the jack tray, that is exactly the same height as the sides of the tray and the ends of the tray where it slides on the ramp. Like so.

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Then I made a piece of 3/16" diamond plate to go over the support and jack tray. I can now put the jack stands anywhere I want. If I want the suspension unloaded, I can put the jack stands on the ramp under the frame. If I want the suspension loaded but in the air, I can put the jack stands under the LCA's or rear axle. The system does require a bit of monkey business but it works, and after using it for the last six months or so I'm OK with it.

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Oldmanmopar said:
Make sure your floor is thick enough for a two post. And good strong concrete. My floor is 8 inches thick. I saw one rip out of the floor when the guy was jerking bolts loose. Destroyed the car and the garage when it went through the wall. 4 post are safer if you are not sure of the concrete you have. Or cut the floor and pour columns in the ground.
A lift is only as safe as the installer or operator. BE SAFE !!!

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This. Right here. Death is only one mistake away.
My 4 post has a wheel kit also.
24x32 garage,raised ceiling over hoist. I had a full size van on it today, can stand under it and work at a comfortable height.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Make sure your floor is thick enough for a two post. And good strong concrete. My floor is 8 inches thick. I saw one rip out of the floor when the guy was jerking bolts loose. Destroyed the car and the garage when it went through the wall. 4 post are safer if you are not sure of the concrete you have. Or cut the floor and pour columns in the ground.
A lift is only as safe as the installer or operator. BE SAFE !!!

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Holy ****! I had to watch that a second time to make sure I saw what I did. Thanks, now I'm thinking 4 post again.
 
Scamp Rohnda said:
Thinking about a car lift but not sure which way to go. Cost, size, capabilities and safety are all factors. what do you like or dislike about yours. How did delivery and installation go. Looking to get my dream purchase right the first time. As always I trust FABO members input. Thanks much, Steve
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So as usual you'll likely never get a concensus. Because they both have strong points. That's why I wasn't to particular. There's a reason pro shops have both. I will say of all the things people have mentioned, dropping an engine and K member out the bottom is the only thing I can't do with a 4 post. And I think I could, minus the LCA's. Transmission, no problem. The jack pans solve the problem of doing wheel work. And if I got ingenious with straps I could pick a car up with the ramps on top, and back a trailer underneath it. Plus I didn't have to bust any concrete, and it plugged right into the 110vac wall outlet. Good luck with whatever you pick!
 
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halfafish said:
Here's a shot of how my 4-post fits in the shop. I can easily walk around it on either side to get out the door. Well, at least I can do that when I'm not all crapped up with clutter. Who put all this junk in my shop anyway?!? :mad:

The white boxes you see on the floor at the near end of the lift were made to match the height of the ramp when it's on the ground. I'm a wee bit vertically challenged, so these are a big help to stand on to work on stuff at floor level.

View attachment 1715449297



I do have the sliding jack tray, which solves the problem of jacking the wheel/tire up while it's on the lift. The problem I ran into is after jacking it up, how to put a jack stand under it as they don't fit well on the ramp. I made a load-bearing insert for the jack tray, that is exactly the same height as the sides of the tray and the ends of the tray where it slides on the ramp. Like so.

View attachment 1715449300

Then I made a piece of 3/16" diamond plate to go over the support and jack tray. I can now put the jack stands anywhere I want. If I want the suspension unloaded, I can put the jack stands on the ramp under the frame. If I want the suspension loaded but in the air, I can put the jack stands under the LCA's or rear axle. The system does require a bit of monkey business but it works, and after using it for the last six months or so I'm OK with it.

View attachment 1715449301
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Nice looking setup. Like your jacking tray ideas and the boxes to stand on also. Looks like they have some skid resistant finish on them also. Nice
 
moparmandan said:
So as usual you'll likely never get a concensus. Because they both have strong points. That's why I wasn't to particular. There's a reason pro shops have both. I will say of all the things people have mentioned, dropping an engine out the bottom is the only thing I can't do with a 4 post. And I think I could, minus the LCA's. Transmission, no problem. The jack pans solve the problem of doing wheel work. And if I got ingenious with straps I could pick a car up with the ramps on top, and back a trailer underneath it. Plus I didn't have to bust any concrete, and it plugged right into the 110vac wall outlet. Good luck with whatever you pick!
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Yup, I think you're right on with that. Since I'm not a pro I'd be super happy with either one. But in the long run I think I'd be more comfortable with the 4 post. If and when it happens it will feel real good to just sit back with a beer in my hand and just look at for awhile. One of things I've wanted since I was a kid. Just enjoy the moment.
 
I would buy a 2 post, more useful, they can be used for simple things, like picking a bed up on a truck to remove the fuel pump.

Local friend of mine, has nice garage which he makes a living out of, business licence, been doing it for years.
His 4-post lift broke a cable with a car on it, he got the car off with no issues, but the replacement cables for the 4-post was over $2000, he junked the lift and bought a 2 post.
He hauled the 4-post to the junkyard, in hindsight, I should have got it off him and fixed it.
 
moparmandan said:
So as usual you'll likely never get a concensus. Because they both have strong points. That's why I wasn't to particular. There's a reason pro shops have both. I will say of all the things people have mentioned, dropping an engine and K member out the bottom is the only thing I can't do with a 4 post. And I think I could, minus the LCA's. Transmission, no problem. The jack pans solve the problem of doing wheel work. And if I got ingenious with straps I could pick a car up with the ramps on top, and back a trailer underneath it. Plus I didn't have to bust any concrete, and it plugged right into the 110vac wall outlet. Good luck with whatever you pick!
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Thought about k member. If my shop was long enough, i’d run the car front end off the hoist and block it. Strap car for safety and go to town.
 
sireland67 said:
I would buy a 2 post, more useful, they can be used for simple things, like picking a bed up on a truck to remove the fuel pump.

Local friend of mine, has nice garage which he makes a living out of, business licence, been doing it for years.
His 4-post lift broke a cable with a car on it, he got the car off with no issues, but the replacement cables for the 4-post was over $2000, he junked the lift and bought a 2 post.
He hauled the 4-post to the junkyard, in hindsight, I should have got it off him and fixed it.
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Backyard buddy is what im using. $758 usd for 4 new cables.

I had one made here in canada for 350. Got me up and running in a week.
I have lifted a box off with the 4 post. 4 ratchets and up it went.
Shop crane will pick a box up, and it will lift a cab too.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Thought about k member. If my shop was long enough, i’d run the car front end off the hoist and block it. Strap car for safety and go to town.
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Hmmmm. Hadn't thought about that. Sounds totally doable! Thanks!
 
moparmandan said:
Hmmmm. Hadn't thought about that. Sounds totally doable! Thanks!
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Was going to build ramp height blocks to roll car onto. Have to move my hoist and do it on the hoist backwards. Better so, i could set k member onto a trailer .my ramps lift off easily.
 
My knees neck and back prefers the drive on. No hands and knees to set it up,crawling half way under a dripping wet snow covered car.
Drive on, 3 minutes later you are dropping the oil. Never gonna happen with a 2 post.
 
meathead66 said:
That’s the setup I’m leaning towards. By chance are any made in the USA?
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Backyard buddy. Mine is 9000LB
It gave me no trouble until i nicked a cable with a snow plow mounted on a customers truck.
I use this thing 7 days a week.
 
The next lift I buy will be A scissor lift or a parallelogram.
Has the advantage and safety of a four post, and the less obstruction of a 2 post.
Both my 4 post have jacks, and it’s incredible what you can accomplish.
I’m geared toward alignment and brake suspension repair, so I am biased in that regard.
Both have there advantages and disadvantages.
I personally don’t like to get on my knees every time I pull a vehicle on and off is one of my main complaints.
As far as safety a 4 post is hands down way safer.
The Hunter lift I have is one of the best lifts I’ve seen. Probably the safest also.
The Bendpack I have is a monster and will lift 27,000 pounds, and yet do a Volkswagen Karmin Ghia, or S-10 Chevy or A body.
The little pad lift I bought from Snap-on has been pretty handy and diverse. And able to pick up 6,500 pounds.
I started my business with the Bendpack due to the diversity. Semis to small cars it does em all.

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Scamp Rohnda said:
Yeah, I like that too. How do you balance the vehicle? What I mean is how do you determine the center point of the weight?Are factory jacking pads engineered for centering a vehicle's weight? I get nervous thinking about a car crashing down when pulling or pushing under there.
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Scamp Rohnda said:
I don't know where to begin. First off I love your tranny jack contraption. That's what you do when you get older, you invent better stuff to safe your back and body. Second off, you opened my eyes as all you can do with a 2 post. I didn't even think about setting a body down on a trailer. Bouncing it a little to feel for center sounds logical too.
And I thought you only new electrical. Lol, thanks alot
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I used a two post for decades and never had a problem with balancing a vehicle no matter what I was doing.
It just takes a little common sense when placing the arms.
Never had an arm come off during any work, but I have had one arm not be in as solid of contact with the vehicle due to different placements of them from one side to the other.
Like I said, common sense.
The 4 post doesn't really require as much.:D
 
we just installed a 2 post at my house. 4.25" thick reinforced concrete is all that was required. ( was happy to see over 5" ), we did a 4 post at dads.
the 4 post I easier for my dad. I prefer the 2 post worked on one for years at the dealer. couldn't agree more with the common sense statement.
the locks on the arms in the rolls video obviously didn't work. first thing I did was give my rack a once over every morning. just like any tool, if not maintained
they can be dangerous. over the years we have done some sketchy stuff and survived. part of the reason we installed the lift is to Not have to be doing that kind of stuff.
what ever you install Be Safe!
 
Scamp Rohnda said:
I'll have to check my concrete thickness for sure. I'm not sure but the 4 post seems like there is more work and more weight involved in setting them up. Those are all good points you brought up and I really like the idea of being able to move the lift around. Thanks
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4 posts are much easier to install. The floor can be thinner, and more importantly, the cars' center of gravity is between the posts at all times. They will not tend to pitch over. The 2 post if loaded poorly with a heavy vehicle, will have a very large twisting force on the 2 floor mounts, trying to pitch the car and lift over. So the criticality of the floor becomes much, much higher for a 2 post.

NDW I'd ever put a 2 post of any kind on a typically thin garage slab, and honestly, I' not even be happy with a mere 2'x2' thick base.....too small IMHO. I'll be putting in much larger sized bases for my 2 post, 8-12" thick and re-bar'd into the surrounding slab, and on very well packed gravel. I'll be putting a couple of Mega Cab diesels on it from time to time, so there can be no fooling around on being heavy-duty.
 
I made sure there's a foot of concrete under each column of each lift.
I wouldn’t trust under 6-8” on a four post, and 10-12” on a 2 post. Where the post aren’t involved 4-6” would probably suffice.
Concrete needs to be reinforced.
The main thing to make sure of is the condition of the cables, or chains as my big lift uses, and to insure the safety locks engage, and work properly.
I’m constantly doing other businesses and dealerships work, as they don’t have the lifts to accommodate the weight or length of the jobs I do, so safety is paramount.
Never cut corners on a lift or the installation.
 
I know this thread is about 2- and 4-post lifts but when I was looking for a lift, I thought a scissor lift was the right one for me. I ended up buying a used Hydra-Lift (Canadian made but no longer in business) and am very happy with it. It has over 6' of clearance under the car when fully extended.
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The main part of my garage is wide enough for two vehicles and there is enough space between them to move the toolbox or engine hoist from one end to the other. If I had a 2/4 post lift, I don't think there would be room between the vehicles to move things. As someone else mentioned, there is not one perfect hoist that has no drawbacks. A scissor lift is yet another option, and as 12swinger mentioned, it has the safety advantage of a 4 post. That was a big plus when I was trying to figure out which type to get.
 
mcmlvii said:
I know this thread is about 2- and 4-post lifts but when I was looking for a lift, I thought a scissor lift was the right one for me. I ended up buying a used Hydra-Lift (Canadian made but no longer in business) and am very happy with it. It has over 6' of clearance under the car when fully extended.
View attachment 1715450264
The main part of my garage is wide enough for two vehicles and there is enough space between them to move the toolbox or engine hoist from one end to the other. If I had a 2/4 post lift, I don't think there would be room between the vehicles to move things. As someone else mentioned, there is not one perfect hoist that has no drawbacks. A scissor lift is yet another option, and as 12swinger mentioned, it has the safety advantage of a 4 post. That was a big plus when I was trying to figure out which type to get.
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To do a better comparison I should have included scissors type lift along with the 4 and 2 post lifts in my original post. Good info there, Thanks.
 
NO one has asked, but WHAT are you wanting to do with a lift? Storage? Work? Figure out more of "which one" you want and go from there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
NO one has asked, but WHAT are you wanting to do with a lift? Storage? Work? Figure out more of "which one" you want and go from there.
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Work on my own stuff mainly. Hopefully help some others out that could use it occasionally. It would make things easier for me. My back and other parts are wearing down like a lot of us old farts and I want to extend the time I have to keep working on cars. I don't have to do anything for a living any more. Sooo..... I just wanna have some fun. Lol
 
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