Couple passes at the track today

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MOPARCODY

MOPARCODY

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Today was race number two of our local et series. Car was super consistent with the exception of some cooling issues. Car likes to get hot when sitting. I’m assuming it’s the old brass radiator and crappy summit e fan. Would love some advice on a good radiator and e fan set up. Engine is just a 380 hp 360 crate motor with the eq heads. Best pass today was a 7.42@92

here’s a couple videos from today


 
I'd look into the ColdCase radiator. They are here on FABO and have a forum. I'd contact them. Really nice stuff.

What gear and converter are you using? By your numbers using the Wallace calculator, your showing 411 HP from your ET and 423 HP from your MPH at the crank.

That's about 40 HP over advertised.

Also, from the video, your converter is too tight. Listen to the engine from the dig, it struggles for about 40-60 feet and then it starts making steam.
 
Meanwhile I JUST GOT IN FROM SNOW REMOVAL OPERATIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
The converter is definitely a little too tight for this combo. I’m running a turbo action 3500. 391 gear. I might have my local converter guy see if he can re stall it for me. I’ll need to do some research to find out how loose it needs to be.

The eq heads flow a lot better than the stock magnum heads.

I’ve seen the cold case radiators but they have a ton of different core sizes. Obviously bigger would be better but I’m limited on space between fan and water pump pulley
 
MOPARCODY said:
The converter is definitely a little too tight for this combo. I’m running a turbo action 3500. 391 gear. I might have my local converter guy see if he can re stall it for me. I’ll need to do some research to find out how loose it needs to be.

The eq heads flow a lot better than the stock magnum heads.

I’ve seen the cold case radiators but they have a ton of different core sizes. Obviously bigger would be better but I’m limited on space between fan and water pump pulley
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If you post all your stuff in the CC forum here on FABO I'm sure he will see it and answer any questions you have. Or you can call them too. IMO, the bigger the radiator with two big cores the better.

Also, a high volume water pump like the Mildon or Flowkooler with the pump overdriven and a Stewart Components high flow thermostat and you will be able to go through the Mohave with the AC on and never get over 180.
 
dicksmidlac said:
Just curious on your rear tire size?rims?backspace? Looks good!
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Thanks they’re 15x12 4” backspace with a 325 50 15. Springs moved in and new wheel tubs installed.
They’re just cop car rallies that were widened. Just temporary until I buy some champion wheels in the spring
 
Sounds like a good day at the track to me! Nice work!

Any word on when Sac raceway is closing?

Do they always only run 1/8 mi in that et series?
 
yellow rose said:
If you post all your stuff in the CC forum here on FABO I'm sure he will see it and answer any questions you have. Or you can call them too. IMO, the bigger the radiator with two big cores the better.

Also, a high volume water pump like the Mildon or Flowkooler with the pump overdriven and a Stewart Components high flow thermostat and you will be able to go through the Mohave with the AC on and never get over 180.
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I have the March performance underdrive/serpentine pulleys and I think that might be part of the problem
 
Should be open for at least about 5 years. I think the owners worked out some type of extension.
We just run 1/8 when it’s cold
 
MOPARCODY said:
I have the March performance underdrive/serpentine pulleys and I think that might be part of the problem
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Oh yep. If you under drive the water pump you are killing flow, especially and low engine speeds.

If you are shifting at 8000 or something you MAY be able to slow the pump down to help keep the belts on. If you can keep the belts on, then you still overdrive the pump.

The little bit of power you save under driving the pump you lose that and then some because you can't really control coolant temp. Anytime the engine temp gets over 180 you start giving up power.

160 is way better, but it's hard to get the engine that cool. You also need a very good, light grade oil.
 
I've used a little squirrel cage motor to run the water pump instead of the belt. Also an electric water pump... I like having the electric fan as well. This gives the option of just leaving both running in between round and never a problem..
Nice passes!
Also come on snow we love it here in the northwest!.... They'll be plenty of time for drag racing in the months to come...
 
I like Be Cool with their twin electric. Pricey, but bolt in and the best and biggest radiator you can get in there.

What are you leaving at? SOunds like you are trying to footbrake the car at too high an RPM. You want a high idle RPM and let it flash. If you load the convertor it will slug out of the hole like it is.
 
Nice passes. It gets right with the program! Ditto on the converter. It 's working pretty hard to 60' then comes alive. Nice work.
 
I still want to know what he's trying to leave at..

But he did say it's a 3500 convertor. 3500 behind what engine? 3500 behind my 575ft/lb engine? Then not 3500 in his.

My guess is he's trying to foot brake it to the moon and it's clearly loading the converter and pushing and twisting the car while braked.
 
roccodart440 said:
I still want to know what he's trying to leave at..

But he did say it's a 3500 convertor. 3500 behind what engine? 3500 behind my 575ft/lb engine? Then not 3500 in his.

My guess is he's trying to foot brake it to the moon and it's clearly loading the converter and pushing and twisting the car while braked.
Click to expand...

I foot brake it to about 1800 and let it flash
 
I’ve got a 3500 TA and it does best off idle. Flashes to the 3500 with 1.63/64’s 60’ Any other way such as loading then the 60’ suffer. Obviously you’ve tried every which way
 
If you have money....buy a cross flow aluminum radiator from jegs or whoever, 2 rows is more than enough. I run a single row for instance and have 500+ and barely run on pump gas.

If you dont have the money...you can do as I did and snag a 90's bmw 5 series radiator and with very lil work it drops in and fits the core support window perfect. It sits on doughnuts like a GM or new mopar. Weld/bolt one tap with a hole for the peg on pass side and just drill a hole on the drivers side and use some radiator hose as a cushion. I use a standard top hose cut in the middle with a moroso filler neck in between....and a slant top hose at the bottom stretched over the water pump inlet with a lil oil on the lip to slide. Still running it, hoses too, 16 yrs later. Never gets hot and is a singe row....very light weight.
 
I have an aluminum cross flow, 1 pass on my bracket car. 416, 904, 5000 converter, 5.13 spool. It has a Moroso electric pump, set up for 1/8th mile, I cool it between rounds with a garden sprayer. My block is full filled with HardBlok so I'm only cooling the top of the cylinders & the heads. It rarely gets over 195/200 during the later rounds.
 
If converter is advertised @ 3500 stall chances are it's flashing less. Probably needs a converter to be 3800-4000 or better yet 4200 stall to shoot out of the hole like a cannon!:D
 
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