727 Build for Mid-10s

How much can you spend on the tranny and how much on a converter?
Honestly, I just want to buy parts that are necessary for my application. Luckily, I can afford any parts necessary to build a transmission for this application.

I do plan on getting a good convertor from Dynamic. I've had good luck with them in the past.

You have a great parts list there, missing one thing. Billet drum. I know, they're expensive. Kills me how many people think a bolt in sprag and LBA valve body will "fix it" so the stock drum "won't explode". They are good safety measures for sure, but, in the end, what is the very last thing to fail? Your lower extremeties(sp) will thank you for it! With that being said, I ran a stock drum 727 for YEARS! with no failure. Burnouts starting in second. Once the tires are spinning, directly to third. That big block is going to make a **** ton of torque, good thing it's a light car.
I'm considering a billet drum as well. It's only money, right?

Just talk to John cope at Cope racing transmissions, you can buy a complete trans.
I will not buy a complete trans for a couple reasons. 1- I've never built one and I'd like to learn. 2- After reading multiple books, watching videos, and disassembling mine, I've realize how simple the TF's are. I have spoken with John and have a list of parts he recommends. I'm just doing some additional research to see what other opinions are out there.

Since money is no object. Lose the flex bands. You can use a kevlar lined band at the rear but I would not for the front one. I use a red alto up front. Go with the billet drum as mentioned. Thin Red eagle or alto linings with kolene steels and forged servo pistons. A CRT front pump.
More than happy to help you.

The trans I tore down already has rigid bands and they seem to be in good shape. Is it worth re-using them?

Question about servos- I have a 68 727, which originally came with the more desirable non-'load-controlled' front servo. Unfortunately, I pilfered it to use in another transmission a while back and swapped it for the later 'load-controlled' version. Is it worth simply plugging the hole in the piston with a set screw, or should I be looking for another front servo?

I't sbeen a long time since I ordered parts for a 727 but 2 things are for certain, get a manual valve body (reverse valve body if you run a factory shifter) and get a custom convertor built specifically for your engine/car combo.

I definitely intend to get both.