Large rpm drop

Anything else I should look at?
The 10.5 PV will do wonders for your PartThrottle torque delivery, and you can probably take out some MJ.
When you match the Vacuum advance to it, you might never have to floor it again ........ lol.

Kill the power timing curve, to something like 30* at 3600; then work back into it little by little, say dropping 150rpm atta time, or 2 or 3 degrees at a time, but not both together. One change atta time, don't be in a hurry, and Stop! when you hit the detonation wall. This wall is a moving target. It is highly dependent on the chamber pressure and temperature, which varies in multiple ways, so it isn't always throttle related.
Remember; you can't always hear detonation, and sometimes when you do, it is already severe. And if you don't sneak up on it, you may not feel the associated power loss.
Finally, you can be 4 degrees and nearly 400rpm on the conservative side and not notice the powerloss ........ cuz as a streeter..... you are rarely blasting thru there without tirespin, and if the tires are spinning you already have more power than you need.
My 367 combo runs 32/34* at 3400rpm, and in the zero to 65mph arena, spins the 295s all the way...... so do I care if I'm 7 hp shy? No I don't lol. I wouldn't care if I was 50 short or a hundred, cuz the chassis cannot handle what it already has. ChitI shouldda thought of that when the 223 cam died,lol. Imadope
However, I can run 87E10 at 185psi (aluminum heads) at WOT with this curve, and that makes the lousy fuel-economy not hurt so much,lol.