Large rpm drop
It was a busy day at work and didn't have time to pull the cam lobe info. But it is on a 110 lsa with 4* advance ground in it. I'll look for the cam card and see if there's anything else I missed.
I do have a 180* thermostat, engine sees close to 200* in traffic on hot summer days sometimes. Magnum heads, dual-plane air-gap, no exhaust heat anything.
I'll get to pulling plugs tomorrow when I get to work on it, hopefully it won't be raining.
Lol you're pretty set on not liking my cam, not knowing anything about the car, usage, gearing. There might be a better cam for this engine in a 2000 lb racecar set up strictly for the strip, or a better cam for a truck used to tow that racecar. Or a highway geared land yacht. To each their own though. If you know what cam I need without knowing anything else other than my compression, which you don't believe supposedly, I'll be impressed. It may not be perfect, but my cam was specced by someone who's done it thousands of times for most of his professional career, knowing most of all there is to know and actually seeing , touching the car the engine is in, backed by years of r&d research. Again not saying it's perfect, but it's probably pretty good given the situation of it all I think.
As far as my initial issue, how much of a factor would engine compression, total timing, cam choice be at idle? It's not a very radical cam.
You need to control the heat better. If it's just creeping up at stop lights or in slow traffic that's not too big a deal. But if on hot days the engine is running at 200 I'd be finding a way to get it back down to 180.
Yep. Not liking the cam. I could tell by the few numbers you posted that it was on the Comp de facto 110 LSA. Comp loves that, but for monetary reasons not because it's the best.
When any can grinder calls out something like that LSA for virtually everything, I question that. On top of that, everybody and their mother loves to roll the cam ahead 4 degrees just for ***** and giggles I'd guess.
Or, they are crutching something else. I've spent enough time testing ICL, and almost always, if the cam is correct, the ICL should be at the very most, 2 degrees advanced, and that's because timing chains retard the cam timing a couple of degrees.
So now, you already have a very early closing intake valve, and you move the cam ahead 4 more degrees and make it worse. The theory is it will make more "bottom end" but in reality, you make detonation much more likely. Then you retard the timing, which kills power, right off the bottom where everyone thinks they want more power and it kills the middle power too.
So yes, I'm saying I don't like your cam. I love the CR, not a real big fan of the intake manifold, but it's better than a manifold with heat in it.
Like I said, put the cam in on a 110 and help it out a bit.
Or better yet, get a cam with the correct timing events.