Introduction, and trans issue

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The Villian

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Hello,
This my first post so I will say a little about what I have. I have a 1968 dart 318 with A-904 8.25 rear end, it is a little off but I like it. It is my first dodge ever But not my first classic. So I installed a edelbrock proflow 4 and after market lokar kickdown cable. So now I can not get the trans to shift back into 3rd after it kickdown into 2nd after I get into it. I checked kickdown and it seems to be adjusted ok, 1st to 2nd shifts at about 20mph and 2nd to 3rd about 40 ish. What do you guys think. Thank you for the help.
 
Hey, welcome aboard!
Theres quite a few Auto Trans gurus, (I'm not one of em), give them time to chime in.
Enjoy
Enjoy
 
How did it shift before you modified anything? Those Lokar cables can be a source of contention sometimes with Mopars. Usually the best is to make the stock linkage work if at all possible. But tell us how it shifted before you modded it and we can go from there.
 
How did it shift before you modified anything? Those Lokar cables can be a source of contention sometimes with Mopars. Usually the best is to make the stock linkage work if at all possible. But tell us how it shifted before you modded it and we can go from there.
Agreed. Sounds like he may need to do the old wide open throttle thing and adjust from there. The shift points don't sound bad but not enough travel for passing gear. Depending what year transmission and modifications, it might not have "part throttle kickdown" but only 3-2 passing gear downshift.
 
Hello,
This my first post so I will say a little about what I have. I have a 1968 dart 318 with A-904 8.25 rear end, it is a little off but I like it. It is my first dodge ever But not my first classic. So I installed a edelbrock proflow 4 and after market lokar kickdown cable. So now I can not get the trans to shift back into 3rd after it kickdown into 2nd after I get into it. I checked kickdown and it seems to be adjusted ok, 1st to 2nd shifts at about 20mph and 2nd to 3rd about 40 ish. What do you guys think. Thank you for the help.
You're combination of line-pressure plus throttle pressure and/or governor pressure, is too high. Probably a misadjusted cable or linkage, or a sticking cable, or bent anchor, etc. You may need to put a return spring on the TV lever down at the trans end.
Here's the test;
Disconnect the cable at both ends and roadtest her. The shifts should come quick and soft. Do not use more than 50% throttle while in this mode or you could cook the friction materials. But around the block will be fine.
If you have to operate in this mode for longer,then tie the KD lever on the trans rearward at least 70/80% of it's sprung travel, and disconnect the secondaries or don't use them. I have operated this way for thousands of miles.
If the shift rpm is too high for you, decrease the tie-back , but then also use less throttle during the shifts.
 
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Hi and welcome.

Some one recently posted a Mopar training video about proper adjusting of the kick down.

Good thing I e-mailed myself the link FABO's search engine sucks
 
How did it shift before you modified anything? Those Lokar cables can be a source of contention sometimes with Mopars. Usually the best is to make the stock linkage work if at all possible. But tell us how it shifted before you modded it and we can go from there.

Well, it shifted strange before, the guy I got it from told me he was not a mechanic, he was more like a butcher, car was all crazy. So when I would half throttle accelerate, it would shift shift from 1 to 2 almost immediately. It did have a passing gear and kickdown and upshift after. He made his own kickdown cable and it did not work right.
 
Well, it shifted strange before, the guy I got it from told me he was not a mechanic, he was more like a butcher, car was all crazy. So when I would half throttle accelerate, it would shift shift from 1 to 2 almost immediately. It did have a passing gear and kickdown and upshift after. He made his own kickdown cable and it did not work right.

It sounds like it had very little to no throttle pressure if it shifted that soon. As such, it could have damaged the transmission. Chrysler products are not like Chevys. Chryslers MUST HAVE that linkage connected, or the transmission will burn up, beginning with high gear, then second and finally first. The reason is because without that throttle pressure linkage, the clutch packs don't have enough pressure to hold the clutch packs together as the vehicle accelerates. That's the whole premise behind the linkage. To make it increase as the accelerator is depressed further and further. Here is what you need to do. "Whatever" you have for that linkage, whether it's linkage OR a cable, you need to adjust it as follows.

Block the gas pedal all the way to the floor, without the engine running of course. lol Next get under the car and locate the kickdown lever on the transmission. Grab it and see if you can push it BACK towards the rear of the car. If you can, you want that lever adjusted so that it is all the way back with the gas pedal on the floor. Once adjusted like that, drive the car and see if it improves. Sometimes, adjusting the lever all the way back is too much and you need to back it off a little to get the shifting where you want it.
 
It sounds like it had very little to no throttle pressure if it shifted that soon. As such, it could have damaged the transmission. Chrysler products are not like Chevys. Chryslers MUST HAVE that linkage connected, or the transmission will burn up, beginning with high gear, then second and finally first. The reason is because without that throttle pressure linkage, the clutch packs don't have enough pressure to hold the clutch packs together as the vehicle accelerates. That's the whole premise behind the linkage. To make it increase as the accelerator is depressed further and further. Here is what you need to do. "Whatever" you have for that linkage, whether it's linkage OR a cable, you need to adjust it as follows.

Block the gas pedal all the way to the floor, without the engine running of course. lol Next get under the car and locate the kickdown lever on the transmission. Grab it and see if you can push it BACK towards the rear of the car. If you can, you want that lever adjusted so that it is all the way back with the gas pedal on the floor. Once adjusted like that, drive the car and see if it improves. Sometimes, adjusting the lever all the way back is too much and you need to back it off a little to get the shifting where you want it.
I have done what you suggested, and it seems to be adjusted fine, maybe an 1/8 of play to the back left but I think it is ok. Do you think I may need a heavier spring for the selenoid down there?
 
I have done what you suggested, and it seems to be adjusted fine, maybe an 1/8 of play to the back left but I think it is ok. Do you think I may need a heavier spring for the selenoid down there?

If it is a 904, there is no solenoid. It is hydraulic controlled only. Has it ever shifted correctly? If not, the adjustment inside the pan might be off. You should download a factory service manual. @67Dart273 Dell will you please let him know where to go to download that? I can never remember. Thanks.
 
MyMopar.com has FSM. unless you are talking about a transmission specific FSM
 
When I got my 72 Charger the trans was all goofed up. Same story, the guy didn't know much about cars. Turns out somebody "tried" to put a shift kit in it and failed miserably. It wasn't even the original 904, it was from a 1968. So if you end up needing a new valve body confirm the year of the trans.
Good luck.
 
Well, thank you for all the replays. I just changed the trans pan, to solve the leak issue. And I will keep trouble shooting the passing gear kickdown issue at high speed.
 
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