Help ID a833

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Mopar92

Mopar92

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Been on the lookout for an A833OD. This has a "dual mount" shifter. The pics I got aren't super clear. Looking for a 4 speed to fit my 73 Duster small block. Any idea what this is?

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What is this? Was told it was out of an F body. Looking for an A body to fit in my 73 Duster and don't want to get stuck with some truck or van BS. It is a small block bellhousing and the case is aluminum. Can't tell if that's an iron tailshaft in the pic or not. Thanks for the help guys.

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Mopar92 said:
What is this? Was told it was out of an F body. Looking for an A body to fit in my 73 Duster and don't want to get stuck with some truck or van BS. It is a small block bellhousing and the case is aluminum. Can't tell if that's an iron tailshaft in the pic or not. Thanks for the help guys.

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Looks like a 71-74 B/E-Body shifter location trans with a homemade adapter bracket to make the a-body shifter work....possibly from a truck? Check out the linky below....the more pictures and part numbers you post will help
Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
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So stay away from it? Going to be the wrong ratios? I don't know how I posted that in general. Sorry guys. I wondered where the damn thread went so I started another. Thanks.
 
Honestly there is nothing wrong with the OD boxes, even the long tail truck and van variants, they are the same length as a 727 and fit an a body just fine with a shifter adapter plate. Dont get caught up in the weak aluminum box overdrive ratios bs. They are plenty strong, offer a nice low first for snappy launches and a slight overdrive in fourth which is awesome on the highway. The steel shifter mount plate in the picture looks like what the factory used in trucks and vans.
 
I don't think they made the B-E body cars with the OD box but I could be wrong.

I don't know what that is. If it's the OD box, the 3-4 shift lever is upside down. Looks like it has the aluminum case and a cast iron tail housing.


What does the seller say it is? I guess it could be a later 3.09 first gear box...but with that tail housing???
 
my version of an od e , b , van or p/u body tall stock with shift linkage and bracketed for an a body

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Another oldie but goodie helpful thread as I plan my truck version 833OD into A body swap.
 
OD's were made in all kinds of configurations, both aluminum case and iron case
A bodies of course, short shaft
Truck/ van which is B/E body long tailshaft

GM used them both with an adapter from the native Chrysler bolt pattern and also in a special GM case with GM bellhousing pattern. And, I put one together for a guy I've never heard of. It was in a Chev 1/2 FOUR X FOUR with a MARRIED transfer case. I had a thread on it here, somewhere This was a production Chev, factory

Notice this has married transfer case adapter and Chrysler bolt pattern. this was out of a Chev

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GM input shaft but Chrysler bolt pattern, aluminum "I think" and GM tail housing

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And of course Hurst was involved, supplying the shifters. Seems like that would have been an easy part for the factory to handle.
 
Mopar92 said:
Been on the lookout for an A833OD. This has a "dual mount" shifter. The pics I got aren't super clear. Looking for a 4 speed to fit my 73 Duster small block. Any idea what this is?

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Truck/van overdrive. I know it can be done, but save yourself the trouble and find an A/F version of the overdrive if that is what you want. Especially since you don't own it yet...
 
Dan Brewer said:
Truck/van overdrive. I know it can be done, but save yourself the trouble and find an A/F version of the overdrive if that is what you want. Especially since you don't own it yet...
Click to expand...

The original post was from 2015, revived now as I'm planning mine.
I get your perspective, especially since you likely have a hundred of them in storage :)
If I could easily locate one for low cost I would do so, and I may call around before diving into this one. We are not in a large urban area so picking is limited.
I've had my truck OD for quite some time. The fabrication for mounting the shifter is not a big deal to me. I'm doing a resto mod so staying original is not important.

I appreciate that you take the time to post on the forum and answer email questions.
At some point I'll be ordering rebuild parts.

My build thread:
Project Frog Princess
 
Idaho said:
The fabrication for mounting the shifter is not a big deal to me. I'm doing a resto mod so staying original is not important.
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In that case
I highly recommend the long-tail, because in an A-body with bucket seats, you can move the shifter to wherever you want it to be.
I put it about 7inches back and up high enough to install the upper shifter bolt from the cabin. New rods are easy to fabricate.
I can't recommend the od box for a high-reving, low-compression engine tho, cuz the ratios are quite far apart, specifically the 1-2.
And I guarantee you that when you forget you are shifting a 3+1 you will zing all the teeth off the M/S od gear in an instant. That gear was designed for a 150hp 318. With a torquey 360 it don't take much to shred the teeth off it. I have two or three od boxes in the shed to prove it. Count your shifts! First thru third seem to put up with 400hp ok.
But IMO, the Command box is a better solution. You get the 3.09 low, and the rest is like the standard box. So you can run 3.23s and still have real good take-off, with a reasonable cruise-rpm. With 3.23s this works out to a starter gear of 9.98 ( same as 3.73s with a standard 2.66 low), and a cruise of 65=2600 with 27" tires. The penalty is that second gear is 1.92x3.23=6.20, and 32 mph is 2460 rpm, so your engine is gonna need some grunt to pull that...... unless you downshift.
I run the Commando with 3.55s, which is awesome, except for 65=2870 with 27s..... so I got me a GVod to cure that. Now 65=2240
 
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Dan Brewer said:
Truck/van overdrive. I know it can be done, but save yourself the trouble and find an A/F version of the overdrive if that is what you want. Especially since you don't own it yet...
Click to expand...

AJ/FormS said:
In that case
I highly recommend the long-tail, because in an A-body with bucket seats, you can move the shifter to wherever you want it to be.
I put it about 7inches back and up high enough to install the upper shifter bolt from the cabin. New rods are easy to fabricate.
I can't recommend the od box for a high-reving, low-compression engine tho, cuz the ratios are quite far apart, specifically the 1-2.
And I guarantee you that when you forget you are shifting a 3+1 you will zing all the teeth off the M/S od gear in an instant. That gear was designed for a 150hp 318. With a torquey 360 it don't take much to shred the teeth off it. I have two or three od boxes in the shed to prove it. Count your shifts! First thru third seem to put up with 400hp ok.
But IMO, the Command box is a better solution. You get the 3.09 low, and the rest is like the standard box. So you can run 3.23s and still have real good take-off, with a reasonable cruise-rpm. With 3.23s this works out to a starter gear of 9.98 ( same as 3.73s with a standard 2.66 low), and a cruise of 65=2600 with 27" tires. The penalty is that second gear is 1.92x3.23=6.20, and 32 mph is 2460 rpm, so your engine is gonna need some grunt to pull that...... unless you downshift.
I run the Commando with 3.55s, which is awesome, except for 65=2870 with 27s..... so I got me a GVod to cure that. Now 65=2240
Click to expand...

I plan to use OD very gently.
I've got Caddy CTS buckets going in, possibly will also use the CTS console, depending on how positioning the shifter works out so I think you're right, I like having flexibility.
I have a 4 speed floor pan in another car, but may just fab a floor over the cutout if I decide to put the shifter different from the factory.
Kinda sounds like your shifter may have been located behind the rear mount with lengthened rods?
 
AJ/FormS said:
But IMO, the Command box is a better solution. You get the 3.09 low, and the rest is like the standard box. So you can run 3.23s
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OK, WHUT?? ............is a "command box?"

Only 3X low gear 4 speeds I know of (non OD) were some slants and 273?

By the way I don't think the 3X low gear boxes are particularly strong, either
 
Idaho said:
Kinda sounds like your shifter may have been located behind the rear mount with lengthened rods?
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you got it
Also, Like said here;
d55dave said:
Honestly there is nothing wrong with the OD boxes, even the long tail truck and van variants, they are the same length as a 727 and fit an a body just fine with a shifter adapter plate. Dont get caught up in the weak aluminum box overdrive ratios bs. They are plenty strong, offer a nice low first for snappy launches and a slight overdrive in fourth which is awesome on the highway.
Click to expand...
I have put over 400hp into the first three gears, with a CenterForce II, and 295/50-15s tp 325/50 15 BFG- DRs, and powershifting it, and gearsplitting it; All without hurting it even a bit. So I'm guessing you can do same. It is only the M/S od gear that is fragile. When it blows up; the rpm hits the rev limiter, the teeth go everywhere, and shred the cluster gear. On one occasion, some of the teeth went into the input gear, and shredded that as well. On another occasion, I was able to drive a further 30 miles without any other damage.After a third occasion, I knew there was something wrong with me, because I seemed to have a hard time remembering NOT to speedshift into overdrive,lol. So I pulled the whole works outta there, and installed the Commando Combo, which turned out to be the best thing for my combo. It's been in there now since 2005ish.
That third occasion was with my winter engine; a stock long-block smogger teen with a TQ on it, And this time I wasn't even slamming it!
 
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67Dart273 said:
OK, WHUT?? ............is a "command box?"

Only 3X low gear 4 speeds I know of (non OD) were some slants and 273?

By the way I don't think the 3X low gear boxes are particularly strong, either
Click to expand...
Edit; Commando box; the 3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00 box as found behind the 273-4bbl Commando engines. My 360HO streeter has not been able to damage it in the least yet, in something like 60,000 miles or more, with thousands of full-power 7000 rpm powershifts.
 
I too did not initially understand that you were referencing a non OD A833. My A-833 book shows 63 - 64 had the low 3.09 gear like the OD version and a smaller gap going to 2nd.
I'm building a 408 but I don't plan to be power shifting and plan to rev limit around 5800. I think I'll have the torque for burnounts without clutch dumping so I feel like it can live.
BTW, tires are 295, and I have the centerforce II clutch.
 
Keep in mind that; the od will bring your cruising revs way down. (.73)
If you are doing this for fuel economy, 2 things come to mind; First is that as the Rs go down, with a big cam or rather with a late-closing intake valve,the engine will get less and less efficient This is cuz, as it runs slower, there is more time to pump fuel charge back up into the intake manifold. And the headers have plenty of time to pull fresh fuel charge straight across the top of the piston and out of the chamber. and finally, trying to give the engine the cruise-timing it craves, soon becomes impossible.
The result of all this is that with a hot-rod engine, a low cruise-rpm is not always gonna get you better fuel economy. I'll guess the switch point with most of us streeters is between 2200 and 2400. Somewhere between there is where the minimum rpm for fuel-economy is gonna be.
With 295/50-15s being about 27" in diameter, this would make 60=2400 with 3.23s, 65=2400 with 2.94s ... in direct fourth.
With 2.94s and a standard 2.66 low gear, you get a starter gear of 7.82, and your stroker is gonna complain about that.
But with the 3.09 low in the Commando box, you get 16% more TM; 3.09x2.94=9.08.. Ima thinking the stroker is still not gonna be a dump-it-and-go deal, it kindof depends on how much cranking cylinder pressure it makes.
But with a 3.09x3.23=9.98, now you got a good amount of TM to work with; and 65=2610. At this rpm, you can still not optimize the cruise timing without a computer, but at least the engine is cleaned up as good as it gets.

To run 65=2400 with the od box would require a rear gear of 4.10. and your starter would be 12.67,and that, friend, is a dump-it and go deal for just about any SBM. And with a stroker, you shouldn't have any trouble pulling that 54% 1-2 split.
Of course if you plan on cruising at a higher than 65mph roadspeed you would probably run less rear gear.
Point of reference;I ran 4.30s for one summer, but that 13.29 starter was way more than my 367needed. She ended up with 10.97 as perfect
 
4:10 diff; 27" tire; 10:1 CR.
Fuel economy is not the main goal, just don't want annoying high revs on the highway.
You must be a math wiz with numbers flying around your head all the time. :)
 
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