Another timing curve question

Mattax said
But that's out of gear. Not such a big deal with a stick. With an automatic the lack of torque and power at idle becomes apparent when put into drive and the rpms drop like a rock. My only point is borrow that lesson learned from those of us with automagics.

It may be that with that cam and combo, four corner idle would be a help.
I say that because on the secondary side, the only fuel contribution at idle is the dribble holes - ignoring the situation where the secodnaries are opened to the transfer port.

Fortunately I do have a stick :) I much prefer to decide exactly when the clutch is going to engage and how quickly, not to mention shift when I want it to...
If I did have an automatic, the converter would be quite a high stall to go with this cam anyway, and load the engine less at idle. With a stock converter it'd be a pig.

Does the increased advance at idle reduce the torque (at idle) significantly? If it's cleaning it up and probably creating more vacuum, isn't that an indication that it's running more efficiently?

I agree that 4-corner idle would be a big help, but by the time I finish modifying (or replacing) the metering blocks and the main body, I might as well buy the carb I should have in the first place! :D But this one cost me something like $60, not $600, so I'm willing to experiment and learn a bit.

Quick test if a richer idle may help- stick some wire down the air bleeds. Secure it under the air filter base gasket

Thanks. David Vizard likes a toothpick in one of the two bleeds :D
I do have a wideband - shows about 13.5-13.8 at idle currently. Not sure how reliable it is at idle with lots of overlap, since it's only measuring the oxygen in the exhaust.