1972 duster curb height

I like the Centerlines.
I think you got the slope nailed.
IMO, the front needs lower profile tires and then jack it back up to maintain the slope. I like bigN littles, but that's me.

But as to actual height;
Put it on the alignment rack. Set you ride ht to whatever height puts the lower control arm about level with the flat-earth plane.
Then,have your man perform the camber change routine with the caster maxed out, the camber set to zero, and the wheel pointing dead ahead. Graph the numbers. Set your FRONT ride height just a lil lower than where the curve apexes. This will ensure the least amount of camber change in the corners, and that will ensure the least amount of bump-steer, so you don't end up chasing the car all over the road, every time one side of the car hits a bump.
Then match both sides; giving up caster on the side with the most, if you have to.
With the front height now set; you can reset the camber to ~.5neg, for the street, with the caster matched and maxed. And a hint of toe-in. As to toe-in, the rack-man never gets it right. What I do is just drive it. I can always tell when it ain't darn close. So I drive it for a few miles or blocks or several minutes. Then I get out and crank some more in, on the passenger side. I never get it right on the first try, so I go a half turn toe-in, and drive it some more. If it needs more, then I put a half-turn into the drivers side. And so on, always alternating. I have never had a guy put in too much toe-in.
Eventually, with too much toe, it will get nervous. With not enough, it will get grabby, and try to climb up out of asphalt ruts. The window with radials is pretty big so don't kill yourself looking for it. With belted tires and their sharp corners, it's another story.
Now go home and adjust the back to whatever you like.
May you find a decent alignment shop the first time; good luck.