318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat

I don't want to get into this discussion with all those experts out there . If the crank doesn't turn you 've gotta find out why . The mains should be torqued before the rods go in . The end play should be checked and the real seal installed . did you check your bearing clearances ? I suggest you pull the rods and see if it turns . The seal will offer some resistance . torque mains one at a time . If it binds up STOP something is wrong . If stuck you must find out why before going forward . Each main torqued must not bind the crank . Center the thrust bearing before final torqueing , check end play . If all is good , add one rod at a time and rotate to check for binding . If any rods bind STOP and find out why . Check , check , clean , clean . You may have a bearing on backwards or upside down . Bad clearances , a bent crank lots of things . good luck and don't give up . We're here to help .

Thanks. Mains were torqued and the crank spun nicely. #1 and 2 pistons felt tight, but then again I don’t know how tight it should be. I thought I could be efficient and install all pistons after 1 and 2 went in, then torque. I’m going to take everything apart tomorrow and start over.

The rods were checked for straightness at the shop prior to install, so I don’t think it’s a bent rod. The rings are supposedly pre-gapped, but I will double check tomorrow. The space between caps is .002, and the space between rod caps/main caps is .0015 to 002. I’m not sure what the specs are, need to check.

Is there such a thing as using too much assembly lube on bearings? I gobbed it on pretty good, thinking excess would squeeze out.

Also, does anyone know if the journal widths are different from the 71 to the 73 crank?