Champion Radiators

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MrCuda68

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So I’ve had one of these in my car for about five years now. Over time it has developed some cracks. I am now looking to replace it and other than the cracking I am pleased with its performance. I believe the cracking stems from the radiator being directly fastened and not isolated from vibration. I am hoping somebody might have a suggestion on how to achieve mounting with vibration isolation.
 
I just finished installing a champion in my valiant,although it bolted in the factory holes it was way off center,after much fabrication and bracketry it’s in and centered.im hoping for a decent life out of it.
 
I just finished installing a champion in my valiant,although it bolted in the factory holes it was way off center,after much fabrication and bracketry it’s in and centered.im hoping for a decent life out of it.

As I`ve posted before , try a GRIFFIN . I dropped this one off a floorjack about 8ish yrs ago , no leaks !
IMG_0539 (3).jpg
 
I've had no issues with my Champion radiator, it's been in for almost 6 years now and over 20k miles. It's direct mounted.

Where is it developing cracks? Even mounted directly to the radiator support it shouldn't be a stressed part of the car. It wouldn't take much though, a couple little rubber washers under the mounting flange would remove a significant amount of vibration.

img_1558_zps3b79216a-jpg.jpg


I just finished installing a champion in my valiant,although it bolted in the factory holes it was way off center,after much fabrication and bracketry it’s in and centered.im hoping for a decent life out of it.

I just drilled new holes/ovaled existing holes in the mounting flanges for mine, no real fabrication needed. Piece of cake.

img_0828-jpg.jpg

As I`ve posted before , try a GRIFFIN . I dropped this one off a floorjack about 8ish yrs ago , no leaks !View attachment 1715462747

Yeah those lower tubes probably flow great too.
 
So I’ve had one of these in my car for about five years now. Over time it has developed some cracks. I am now looking to replace it and other than the cracking I am pleased with its performance. I believe the cracking stems from the radiator being directly fastened and not isolated from vibration. I am hoping somebody might have a suggestion on how to achieve mounting with vibration isolation.
Not saying that this was the cause of the cracks, but aluminum suffers from Electrolysis
 
Core support flex is a known deal with these cars, so grommet mounting helps keep the radiator from moving when the core support moves.
Even just rubber washers under standard washers, then don't tighten the mounting bolts all the way tight so things can move a little.
 
Core support flex is a known deal with these cars, so grommet mounting helps keep the radiator from flexing with the core support.

Yeah but the radiator mounting bolts don't need to be torqued to 50 ft/lbs. It just bolts at the top too, the bottom attachments it should just kinda sits on top of like the factory radiators did. That way you don't get a big corner to corner twisting action.
 
Yeah but the radiator mounting bolts don't need to be torqued to 50 ft/lbs. It just bolts at the top too, the bottom attachments it should just kinda sits on top of like the factory radiators did. That way you don't get a big corner to corner twisting action.

The radiator on my 73 Dart was factory mounted at all four corners and solid bolted.
I fixed that crap after it broke loose the soldered frame to the top tank ends.:D
(factory style replacement radiator)
 
They all have 4 mounting locations, my point was that the lowers usually fit into a slot in the mounting ears. You install the lower bolts loosely, set the radiator down onto them, the install the upper bolts so you don’t have to hold the radiator up the whole time. Then you snug everything up. The lower mounts only clamp a little, they’re not tight circumferentially around the bolts because the bottom is open so the radiator can still shift around as the support flexes.
 
Where is it developing cracks? Even mounted directly to the radiator support it shouldn't be a stressed part of the car. It wouldn't take much though, a couple little rubber washers under the mounting flange would remove a significant amount of vibration.

First crack was at the top tank to core seam, not a big deal never really leaked just turned green. New crack is same area but on the bottom and leaks. Not at all upset with the product.

Was thinking about the rubber washer on both sides of the flange, but was curious of what others thought. I’ve seen electrical components mounted with grommets that have a metal spacer in the center to allow the fastener to be fully tightened without locking down the component. However I’ve been unable to locate something like that.
 
I've been researching aftermarket radiators for a few months , now . I google'd champion radiator reviews and came to the conclusion that about 3 out of 10 customers have a problem with : fit , leaks or cooling . those are big odds , too big for me . Customer service by vendor is spotty but direct c.s. is better . Champion stands by their product as far as defects go . Not so sure about fit . If it works for you run it . If it doesn't , let us know . I can't afford to buy a performance radiator , have it not fit or have it not cool . I'm not cheap but I can't buy parts twice . JMO , thank you .
 
If you have the space, I used this type on a car I built about 20 years ago.
SUM 850111
 
If you have the space, I used this type on a car I built about 20 years ago.
SUM 850111

I shimmed the flange that I moved out to the front of the sides on mine to fit the cradle , which was not exactly perfect , of course a crossflow aint gonna fit a 52 yr old mopar perfect .
 
I’ve had a Champion for 2 years now. Top two bolts lined up perfectly. Drilled and fastened the bottom two! Great quality for the price!
 
I put one in my Valiant 2 yrs ago and its held up fine. I think I had to finesse the mounting holes but outside of that I'm pleased with it for the price I paid.
 
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