The picture I posted from another thread was a reference on how the bushing can be off the pin while still in place with the strut rod attached. not as something that I installed. Something you mentioned that holds the control arm from doing what is pictured
I know it's not something you installed, because DentalDart installed it remember? I know, you didn't bother to link it because then everyone else would see what was actually going on in that picture.
That picture can't be "a reference on how the bushing can be off the pin with the strut rod attached" Wanna know why? Because in that picture the strut rod isn't fully installed. And the lower control arm pivot isn't inserted fully in the K frame, and the pivot nut isn't torqued. Hell the torsion bars aren't installed.
It's literally a picture with the suspension only half installed. All it proves is that you can't tell the difference from a completed installation and one that's in progress.
There were a couple of members here last night and your explanation of these bushings and how they work was brought up. They all said the same thing. You will never understand logic.
That's too funny. Let's try some logic, since you like to use examples.
The flat earth society holds a meeting. 10,000 people show up. Does that mean the Earth is flat now? Of course not. It just means that the 10,000 mouth breathing idiots that showed up for the meeting are all wrong. Opinions can't change facts. Doesn't matter how many people believe it.
On that note, how about the logical fallacy you just committed - Argumentum ad populum. Otherwise known as the "bandwagon fallacy" if the Latin's too tough for you. Go ahead, google it. Short version is, I don't care if you and a couple other guys don't understand what you're talking about, because it doesn't change the facts. Get a hundred members and have a good laugh at my expense, doesn't change a thing. Just don't drop the hammer with a loose control arm on the way home eh?
So- you're saying that the strut rod, whose only function as a part of the suspension is to limit the fore/aft movement of the control arm- isn't what holds the control arm on the pin?
That's not common sense bud. That's flat out stupidity. Strut rods were literally designed for that purpose.
Those are called spacers your arrows are pointing to that keep the washers at the correct distance apart. Slip the spacers out and and where are the sleeves? I don't see them. The spacer goes on the rod between the washers . The shear/wear sleeve would be against the Hole in the K-member with bushing material between the sleeve and the spacer. You really don't have a clue do you?
And what stops the K-member from shearing off the material between the edge of the k-member hole and the spacer between the washers. The one piece rubber on the early struts would wear through over time . That is why they upgraded them to two piece and added the steel,
The poly style material just without the sleeve shears off. The second picture of the bushings without the spacer slid through shows the steel is built into the bushing . The spacer is not slid through. If you want I can go get a spacer and slide one through so you can see the two at one time.
That picture you have the arrows on was a waist of your time. You show nothing on it but your ignorance. Look closely at the pictures of the used bushings. Do you see the steel molded into them. the Poly bushings do not have that . They shear off almost immediately.
An adjustable strut is a good item. But not when used in conjunction with lubed up poly struts. By your own explanation of what holds the arm in place would not be there. The arm has a swivel built on it. The arm could pivot off the pin. Are you blind?
Hey check this out. Factory original bushings with over 91k miles on them. No "shear sleeve". Also, they're intact at 46 years old after 91k miles. Nothing sheared off. I have two sets, both off '74's. I never saw the set on my '71, they were so deteriorated the only thing left was the washers and the "spacer".
So, seems like the "shear sleeves" aren't necessary at all then? Since the factory made every A body from 1973-1976 without them? That's right, they stopped making them the way you think is the only right way to do it over 47 years ago.
Here's a little side by side comparison for you. The poly strut rods bushings have all the same basic components as these factory strut rod bushings from my '74 Duster.
Here are a few quick explanations of a strut rods function I acquired via the inter webs.
The first is from Global West Suspension. (Ford)
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1. “The strut rod, also called brake reaction strut rod, attaches at the front cross member under the radiator and extend back to the lower control arm. The strut supports the lower arm from moving fore or aft during acceleration or braking. The factory uses a rubber bushing to attach the strut rod to the cross member.
The strut rod also performs an alignment function; it adjust caster. Caster provides straight-line stability and is used for improving corner entry. Caster is also contributes to a self-aligning action after the car comes out of a turn. If the bushings go bad, the car will wander, dart during braking, and cause the toe to change (thus creating more tire wear).”
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Hmmmm. I’m sure their just out to procure a few more $ from all the “ignorants”....
The second is directly from from Firm Feel’s website, in reference to their a-body adjustable strut rods.
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2. “We built these adjustable struts to properly locate the LCA (lower control arm). If you are running urethane or nylon LCA bushings and urethane strut bushings
your strut length is now more critical to insure the LCA doesn't slip back or forward on the pivot pin. Otherwise your LCA inner pivot will be " floating," so the front end alignment (toe setting) will not stay put.
You want positive caster AND you want a stable toe setting.
We recommend you preassemble your LCA / Strut assembly and sweep it up and down to make sure every thing move smoothly and the LCA inner pivot stays pulled up snug in position against the LCA pin shoulder, then assemble the rest of the suspension.”
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Wow! Deja vu eh? It’s what everyone has been saying all along. Weird. Is Firm Feel really a respected vender in the Mopar community though? (Sarc)..... Pretty sure most folks here would say absolutely! Ignorant?
The third description is simply from hotchkis’ website in reference to their a-body adjustable strut rods.
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3. “Hotchkis Sport Suspension 14385 1967-1976 Dodge A Body Adjustable Strut Rods. Dramatically improve the cornering performance traction and steering response of your Dart Demon or Valiant with Hotchkis Sport Suspension Adjustable Strut Rods. Designed to positively locate the lower arm these strut rods will improve responsiveness and driver control. The adjustable design features 5/8 in. high articulation rod ends CNC bent brackets and lightweight TIG-welded 7/8 in. tubing. The part is finished off in a lustrous nickel look powder coated finish blending form and function. Features: TIG-welded Lightweight 7/8 in. Tubing Rigid High Quality 5/8 in. High Articulation Rod Ends. CNC Bent Brackets High Quality Hardware Lustrous Nickel look powder coated finish. Benefits: Positively positions lower Arm and Improves Responsiveness. Adjustable design with Rigid 5/8 in. High Articulation Rod Ends. Improves Caster Removes unwanted play and excessive movement in the front suspension. Bolt In Installation. We recommend upgrading to our 21366 Polyurethane lower control arm bushings for use with this part.”
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Again? They must be trying to trick “blind, ignorant” enthusiasts into blowing their hard earned dough. I’m guessing that hotchkis challenger that’s pulling a G in those auto cross corners has SUPER BIG torsion bar clips... you know, so they don’t run over the front wheels when they slip right off the control arm pivot pin. Snake oil I’m sure.
Here is a pic from the Hot Rod article titled “How to Rehab Mopar Front Suspension”
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4. https://www.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2017/01/mopar-lower-control-arm-attachment.jpg?fit=around|29:16
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Why doesn’t this “ignorant, blind” car lover simply slide the attached control arm/strut rod assembly into the k-member and on the pivot pin, one at a time? I mean, the strut rod in no way keeps the control arm from moving forward or backwards right? How could it with that swivel and all? Duh
Lastly, here is a video on YouTube, produced by MOOG of all people. It shows how to inspect strut rod bushings. You’ll probably notice that the second line in the video states that the purpose of a strut rod is to control fore and aft movement of the control arm....
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5.
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Holy crap! Your absolutely right! A worldwide conspiracy involving all of the accredited, aftermarket suspension venders in an effort to exploit our “blind, ignorant”, automotive hobby, loving asses!
It’s your turn Oldmanmopar, break out that Cobalt ratchet, swivel socket and extension. It’s time to save all the helpless idiots from the things that only YOU know. I feel a life changing YouTube tutorial coming on. Even if it does insult 7/8ths of the populace.
Make vulcanized rubber bushings great again!
What!!! The entire purpose of the strut rod is to locate the LCA on the pivot pin?
It can't be! It's like, it's like that's the only reason they're even on the car! Wait, who said that? The company that makes the rubber bushings Oldmanmopar likes? Can't be!!! They even said it so casually, like they expect that everyone should just understand that's an accepted fact about strut rods!