Another "Will these fit?": 18" Mustang wheels

Tinmannz said
Thanks, but, I'm just the caretaker. The credit is to be given to BaddAss71, as this is his build from 2011.

The fella that had it after BadAss really let it go, so I'm just trying to bring it back to its former glory. New paint, rust repair, wheels and some mechanical issues.

Be sure to post them pics when you're done.

I see, that's a bummer... that car does look familiar though now that you mention it, I've definitely seen it before but 2011 is 9 years ago by now (!!!). I don't get how someone could let a car like that 'go bad' but happy to hear you're bringing it back!

72bluNblu said
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you on this! But I agree, the math on that looks right for the rears with the info from your current set up. And with a 1/2" spring offset you'll have plenty of room for 275's. 285's should actually fit too, as I mentioned I run 295/35/18/s on my Duster on 18x10's but I also had to trim the quarter lip about a 1/2" to pull that off at the ride height I'm at, in addition to the 1/2" spring offset.

There are actually like 6 different widths for B-body 8 3/4's, 4 that are the non-tapered axle type. A '67 is narrower than a 68-70 rear. But like I said with the info on the fit from your current set up I think your wheels will work great. You can take a look at the rear end widths here An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

Yup, in the front 275's are possible without any radical modifications if the backspace is right with a set of 18" or larger wheels. The 18" wheels clearing the outer tie rod ends allows enough backspace for it to be possible. Spacers aren't necessary if you get the backspace right, I'm running without the 3mm spacers now. It was just an experiment as my wheels touch the frame at full lock, but that turned out not to be a backspace issue but rather the steering stops. Or lack thereof actually on a set of QA1 LCA's. Thin spacers are no big deal anyway as long as they fit well and you have long enough studs to still get proper thread engagement.

When you machine the hub bores just remember that you'll probably have to do something custom for a wheel cap unless you machine them to a size for an existing wheel cap (which wouldn't be a bad idea). In the front I used a pull though cap that was the right diameter, cut the end off and epoxied the wheel cap that I'm using in the back.

Here's some pictures showing the wheel cap, and how big the 275's are up front
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No worries! Glad to hear these wheels should fit, the calculator showed promising results but it's good to hear from someone who's actually done it. When you say 1/2" spring offset what is that in relation to? For my setup I had the spring perches on the axle housing relocated so the leaf springs still sit in the same location on the body/chassis.

Thanks for linking that list I was unaware there were multiple widths of 1960s 8 3/4" rears. Now I want to go check the width of mine again, I never confirmed what year it was or the exact dimensions aside from spring perch centers to make sure it wasn't a 1971-74; the guy who sold it to me just said it was out of a '67 Coronet.

Good idea for the center caps I hadn't thought about that yet. When you talk about machining the hub bores to a size for an existing cap, are you implying that keeping the bores a slip-fit over the hubs isn't necessary, or do you mean machine the outer edge of the bore slightly larger/smaller to fit a cap? I know on my other vehicles they have aftermarket wheels with a much larger center bore than the hubs so they aren't "hub-centric" and they work fine but they are on a Jeep and old 3/4-ton truck, my Duster gets taken to the track and will see hard cornering on a regular basis so I think having the extra support of the center hub fitting snugly into the wheel bore is a good idea at least on the fronts...?