Anyone here know woodworking?
These are from the reprint of Bernard Jones's books.
Make as many saw cuts as needed so the wood to chopped is less than the chisel's width.
I usually start with the bevel down.
Work from both sides so as not to break out the grain on the far side.
An advantage of using stops and holdfasts over a vise or screw clamp is the speed and ease of removing and securing the piece of wood being worked on.
For finish work, usually bevel up and pare. Use both hands to control the chisel.
Earlier I mentioned rebate and shoulder planes.
Just so you know what they are; both have a blade that goes the full width of the sole.
But the rebate plane also has a fence, and often also has a depth stop. Some also have nickers that can be lowered to cut cross grain.
That said, Jones calls this a rebate plane and it has no fence or depth stop shown.
Stanley 78 is still readily available.
Wood shoulder plane
These are from the reprint of Bernard Jones's books.
Make as many saw cuts as needed so the wood to chopped is less than the chisel's width.
I usually start with the bevel down.
Work from both sides so as not to break out the grain on the far side.
An advantage of using stops and holdfasts over a vise or screw clamp is the speed and ease of removing and securing the piece of wood being worked on.
For finish work, usually bevel up and pare. Use both hands to control the chisel.
Earlier I mentioned rebate and shoulder planes.
Just so you know what they are; both have a blade that goes the full width of the sole.
But the rebate plane also has a fence, and often also has a depth stop. Some also have nickers that can be lowered to cut cross grain.
Stanley 78 is still readily available.
Wood shoulder plane