What broke in my suspension?
As far as I know he’s no longer making any of that stuff.
The plates are pretty easy to make though, even with just pretty basic tools.
Sorry been busy working in the Emergency Department all week. Just got a look today.
Looked like a bad weld at the trans cross member.
View attachment 1715490694
View attachment 1715490695
Yessir, that’s just a cold weld. No need to replace anything. Pull the torsion bar, line up the anchor and weld it back in. Some kind of gusset plate added into the mix would be ideal.
Also, you should re-weld the other side too. Since the weld on one side failed there’s a good bet the other side will too if not addressed now.
Which leads to my next question, what is the proper alignment? I saw a thread with pics that
@72bluNblu posted and looked like two points were at 12 & 6. Is that standard? Is each car a little different?
All of my cars, my Duster, ‘71 GT, and ‘72 challenger all have the torsion bar anchors oriented the same way, with a point at 12 & 6.
It should go without saying that all of these cars are a
little different as factory tolerances were kinda loose especially by today’s standard. But they should all be about the same in that respect. The other thing is that the torsion bars are clocked, not the anchors, so realistically you should just be able to look at the passenger side and copy that. The anchors aren’t offset one side to the other. You want it close, but if it’s not dead on any difference will be taken up at the adjuster when you set the ride height. Rarely are the adjusters set identically on both sides. They should be pretty close, but none of them are perfect.