I grounded coil positive to block?
THANKS. It appears to be a major power problem
First, with all wiring connected "as normal", measure voltage with your meter to the large alternator (black) output wire at the alternator stud. That should be "same as battery" at all times. If you have voltage there, pull out the headlight switch and recheck.
Next, wiggle the bulkhead connectors with the light switch "on" and look for any activity in the headlights. Also wiggle the fuse link area. Take the terminal/ connector part in that fuse link area, check it for continuity. That really at this point is the most likely suspect
If you have not done so, probe into the bulkhead connector area where the fuse link connects, and see if you show voltage there. If so,..........
OK next thing I'd do is pull the bulkhead connector sections apart and inspect the terminals. This is a known problem in these girls.
Read this article for information. Don't worry about the bypass part of the article, but it explains part of the problems with the bulkhead connector and ammeter circuit That article also has a simplified diagram which shows a good idea of the primary power distribution
Catalog
The diagram from this article:
View attachment 1715493894
Follow along. There are minor differences over the years. From the battery, power gets to the big stud on the starter relay. This is not only a junction point, that stud is also one contact of the starter relay. From there, the fuse link goes through the bulkhead connector, on the RED ammeter wire to the AMMETER. Through the ammeter, and out on the big BLACK wire. A few inches later you get to the WELDED SPLICE. From there power branches off and feeds the IGNITION SWITCH, the FUSE PANEL hot bus, and HEADLIGHTS power. It also feeds back out through the bulkhead connector (BLACK) to the alternator
So WHAT could have failed?
In no particular order, the fuse link, connections at the bulkhead connector (RED), connections at the ammeter, and the welded splice itself.
