I grounded coil positive to block?

Well I finally had time to get back at it. I went through the steps in your earlier post and found I do have power with the switch on out the yellow wire on the relay. Went back as I have already removed and bypass the fusible link pull the bulkhead connector apart little corroded but seem to be get in good shape. Cleaned it up and put it back together.I do have power on the other side of it as well as out the fuses.I guess my next step is to pull the dashboard and check the meter gauge?
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What was the voltage at the large black wire attached to the stud?
First, with all wiring connected "as normal", measure voltage with your meter to the large alternator (black) output wire at the alternator stud. That should be "same as battery" at all times. If you have voltage there, pull out the headlight switch and recheck.
What was it after you turned on the headlights?
Do not turn the key on or to start for those initial tests.

"I have already removed and bypass the fusible link"
That eliminated the only little bit of protection against battery shorting and destroying something.
Fusible Links in Charging Systems with Ammeter

"I do have power on the other side of it as well as out the fuses.I guess my next step is to pull the dashboard and check the meter gauge?"
We don't know if you have power on the inside. You have potential power. The way to test for whether there is power was by turning on the headlights. With the markers, dash and headlights on there will be 10-15 amps flowing thorugh the ammeter from the battery. You will see it on the ammeter. You will see a voltage on at the alternator stud that may be different than the votlage on the battery positive terminal. Then we'll have a better idea if there is an issue with power before the key switch.