70 D100

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I believe it be okay will as long as you aren't able to snag a fingernail where the rings were sticking at once you get a crosshatch worked back in. I doubt it will be a problem, they really don't look that bad! A two pound dead blow on the wooden drift will work nicely, oil the walls liberally and let it soak overnight. The combustion byproducts in used oil work nicely on rust.
 
NICE score. I love these old trucks.

Come on now, we all know you are skilled enough to bring her back. That isnt beyond a ballhone job and some TLC. You got this.
 
Rain,
If fixing the slant does not work out I have a np435 bell, flywheel, and should have a truck oil pan for a 318.
 
I have been following this one along, with interest.

I like the Old Trucks

I would think someone could come up with a good used Slant 6 so it could bolt in with the original layout, those Slant 6 engines last forever.


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Enjoy your '70 D100 build project !

Thanks
 
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If your still having trouble getting the rings unstuck, clean and dry the cylinders all the way out and rinse out the oil with Carb, brake, or electrical cleaner. Get it outside, pull the oil pan, and get a flat plastic tote pan under it. Pour in white cleaning vinegar about three inches above the pistons closest to BDC, add three tablespoons of bar keepers friend powder(Oxalic Acid), mix in and then stir in about an inch of naval jelly. Mix thoroughly. Get a cheap turkey baster to siphon some out and distribute to other . Leave a little room. Get your gloves and goggles on, get upwind, and add a tablespoon of muriatic acid to each cylinder. Cover with another flat tote and leave overnight. I once did this with equal parts straight cleaning vinegar, muriatic, and a hydrofluoric acid aluminum cleaner but its really nasty and not good to be around. It turned the pistons into jelly and made a fantastic hazardous mess to clean up. This is a lot milder version of the same, it primarily attacks the rust in the cylinders and rings. Once done, suck everything back out with the turkey baster and put it into a polyethylene jug (windshield washer fluid jug) for disposal (makes great drain cleaner) Rinse cylinders down with hot water three separate times, siphon the water out with the baster and add to the jug. Dry and get some oil back in the cylinders. Try the 2X4 and hammer again. Keep oiling and working back and forth between cylinders. It takes some effort but eventually you'll be able to rotate it around to get the other clutch bolts out.
 
I have the same issue with my '72. There's a rather heavy gauge brace that's fitted between the driver side of the block and the unsupported 1/4 of the bell housing. Mine's missing and I've only ever seen one on an '60's chassis.
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So it's been a long time since I pulled the original slant six and found it to be trashed pretty good.

Multiple cylinders were filled with water and the engine was just abused and wasted.

So in my normal way, I way over thought it and considered putting a running poly 318 I have In the truck.

Lack of info and parts made me get away from that.
 
So the day came that I had some time and some help from cousins hanging around.

A 68 dodge dart that is going to be V8 swapped turned out to be a good slant six donor.

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Before starting surgery I thought about the oil pan situation and i compared the truck oil pan to a car pan to see what the difference is.

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So even though the sump is in a different location the car sump is less than half the depth, so I started to wonder if the car pan would work in the truck

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So the day came and the slant was removed from the dart. It's a good setup because it is out of a manual transmission car so the pilot bushing is in there and everything is a go for a manual transmission.


Also the car didn't have any power options, no power steering or power brakes. Just like the truck.

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With the motor mounts swapped to the truck mounts it fit really good and the car oil pan didn't interfere anywhere.

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The 11 inch clutch is some mega heavy duty stuff and the weight of it really shows it means business.

It was really a challenge even for my helper to get the slant bellhousing on and get the massive flywheel and clutch assembly together.

The NP 435 transmission shifts pretty good and was put back in place. (Wrong shifter boot that came with the truck)

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The NP 435 is a strange one, like nothing I've ever messed with before.

My helper cousin ended up bench pressing it in but I don't think that is anything most people do, but this guy also arm curls filled five gallon water jugs lol :realcrazy:

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I can get used to this slanty stuff, it looks so neat in there.

Needing a ladder to work on it is a bit different, but that would probably be any engine in this truck.

I think Don Knotts would be proud.

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Great work! My bell was cracked in the exact same spot. What did you do about yours?
I forgot to mention I replaced it with another one. Exact same casting number.

They can be found relatively easy because most people V8 swap these trucks.
 
The bed of the truck was full of boxes of parts and a large amount if Trash from the previous owner.

I am surprised how nice it cleaned up. No rust holes anywhere in the box.

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I forgot to mention I replaced it with another one. Exact same casting number.

They can be found relatively easy because most people V8 swap these trucks.

Yep. Finding it cracked was a complete surprise. I had a coupe of days to get the clutch changed and had to braze it up quick. Still holding up after a year. I’m still working out plans to fabricate some kind of strut, 3/16” steel, fitted between the starter and the bell. I’ll bolt the flywheel to the mock up engine and check starter gear engagement.
Really great to see you got this one going again with the original drivetrain.
 
I also had a 70 SWB. Very mild 318/727, I had lots of fun ripping around and raising hell in this truck. Looking forward to see where you go with the drive train.
 
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