pwr to manual steering

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mightyss

mightyss

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i have a 69 valiant that has power steering. i want to go manual. can i just remove the unit,pump,etc. and put a manual unit in? do i need to change modify the shaft, coupler...?? thnx for all advice, im a little rusty on this swap......ss
 
Manual steering box will be shorter. You can either buy the adaptor available on ebay among other places, or swap to a manual column, or lock a vise on your column and pound it down to correct length. Also, I believe you'll need a manual steering coupler, and the right pitman arm. Pretty straight forward swap, actually. I've done it several times
 
As stated above an adapter would be the fastest and easylist to do.
 
I would not lengthen the shaft. IIRC the shaft has plastic injected between the two halves and lengthening it breaks the tabs etc that keep it the length it was designed to be. the effect would be to allow the shaft to be able to lengthen OR shorten over time. I agree that under normal conditions the steering coupler will only allow the shaft to get so long or short BUT if the coupler top came off ( i saw one such photo recently... DOC!!!!!!!!! Im talking to you!!!!!!! @DentalDart ) the shaft could theoretically come out of the coupler.

Just my 2 cents. Manual columns are out there and unmolested.

and by the way... you won't regret going manual

"The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble"
 
The barracuda we bought had an adapter on it pictured. That would be the easiest as stated above. You are not changing anything that you won't be able to change back.

106_0298.JPG
 
Hijack in progress...

Does anyone know if you can remove the coupler by unbolting the steering gear, IE not removing the column? (Obviously taking the roll pin out first)

Hijack over...
 
Dana67Dart said:
Hijack in progress...

Does anyone know if you can remove the coupler by unbolting the steering gear, IE not removing the column? (Obviously taking the roll pin out first)

Hijack over...
Click to expand...


Somewhat yes, but note you also have to remove the dowel pin on the coupler column side to allow for the column shaft end to separate. Also if I recall I had to at least loosen if not unbolt (3 screws at the floor & 2 nuts & a screw at column support bracket) the column in order for it to slide back far enough inside the car to decouple the 3 parts from each other. That is the gear box, coupler, and column, but did not need to remove the column completely, just free up to pull back and shift angle enough. Things may vary a bit to your benefit depending on specific car model, mine was a duster.


F44CF91D-EA63-452B-99E9-101D0DB64CF1.jpeg
 
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I used the 16 to 1, but it seemed to be harder to turn in my application with the large back tires.
 
I did this swap from power to manual and I used a 20:1 ratio for mine. I wanted to go to the 16:1 ratio but with wider radial tires up front I was worried about the parking difficulty and my shoulders.
 
bobscuda67 said:
I did this swap from power to manual and I used a 20:1 ratio for mine. I wanted to go to the 16:1 ratio but with wider radial tires up front I was worried about the parking difficulty and my shoulders.
Click to expand...
How is it? Pretty forgiving? From what vendor? If you don't mind.:steering:
 
It was a Mopar old stock gear set I bought from a member here.
The car drives well and is responsive. Not as much as a 16:1 ratio though.
I would not replace the stock steering wheel with a smaller diameter wheel. With the car stopped and trying to turn the wheels to back into a parking spot it can be tough.
Last year I caught a train coming home from a cruise in. I was waiting for it to pass when it stopped across the road.
Everyone in front of me was turning around to take another route. It was my turn to turn around and it took me over ten tries to get it pointing the other way. I had to take a break after eight tries because my shoulders were throbbing.
That's was the only time I was wishing I didn't take off my power unit.
 
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