EFI help needed, Wiring questions.

YOU NEED to run over to MyMopar and download a free factory shop manual, as well as the aftermarket wiring diagrams. Some of those manuals, as well as the 73, came from the guys right here


The single black: I would suggest you get an ohmeter and check it against the bulkhead connector (with harness unhooked from the firewall) and see what pins it "hits." It might be the brake switch warning down by the steering box

The ignition plugs you can safe off or unwrap the (yeah I know, new) harness and snake them out of there, except for part of the ones that connect to the ballast

You will want to use the same as the coil+ wire as your ignition feed. And you will want to jumper that to the "run" power at the ballast, and CHECK that it is hot in start

HERE is how Mopar igntion switches work:

There is only ONE switched ignition "run" power out under the hood and THAT IS UNFUSED. that is the dark blue IGN1 "run" circuit that goes to the ballast, and at some point, branches off to feed the VR, the alternator field, and some smog doo-dads if equipped, and electric choke, if equipped.

BUT THIS RUN POWER!!!! goes DEAD during "start" (cranking). The ONLY source if ignition power during cranking is supplied by the brown coil bypass "IGN2" which comes from the ignition switch on a dedicated contact and feeds the coil+ side of the ballast resistor.

So for EFI and other ignition systems which DO NOT use a ballast resistor, you must jumper the ballast resistor terminals together, so that IGN1 is hot in run, and IGN2 is hot in "start" and they both then connect to what "was" the coil + wire

If ALL you cut out of the harness is the wires that go to the old electronic ignition connector you should be OK. This includes one of the wires from one of the paired white ballast connectors, the 5 wire ECU connector, and the 2 wire distributor connector.

The other wire in the paired white connector goes to the coil ring terminal. Leave that intact, pull the male end out of the connector and tape it into the harness

So what you should have disconnected is

The 5 wire ECU connector, with wires unwrapped, going to the 2 wire dist. connector
1 wire going to the other wire out of the paired white ballast connector
1 wire that went to "ignition run" which you cut from the "run" group going to the ballast
1 wire going to a ring terminal which would have gone to coil NEG

Everythink else remains in place and should leave the power (IGN) terminal of the VR connector powered. If you want to reduce the footprint of the remaining white ballast connector, pull the terminals out of the connector shell, and tape them up and tape them into the harness. This is the end that should have those two terminals of that one paired connector should be jumpered together.