Fusible link or not?
So here's my suggestions.
1. Don't follow the MAD diagram. (It's a crappy way to do fusible links and a makes a very long rout for power to the main splice. )
2. Do connect the alternator output more directly with the new fuse/distribution box.
3. Decide if you really want a relay to power the new distribution panel. Because it seems to me each of those items probably gets its own relay. Yes? Certainly Line lock gets powered up seperate from the others. If so, then the relays come after the fuses.
This is basic scheme your car came with.
Starter relay is on the fender or the firewall.
Fusible link is after the relay.
Just dealing with protecting the new alternator feed and the new fuse box, it makes most sense to me to use a junction post block. It can be off of the batter or the starter relay. I don't think that matters. This way there can be a maxifuse or link between the post and the battery.
As far as an ammeter goes. It doesn't make much sense keeping it if this is the routing. So you could take it out and also run the feeds through a grommet.
Whether you want to take the feeds off the bulkhead depends on the condition and how much power is still going inside.
Maybe the maximum solution in terms of protection and minimizing resistance going inside would be to have one 16 ga fusible link off of the junction block and then going through a grommet.
OK I'll assume then this is not a 1976, and probably not a 74 or 75. Although those aere still basically 'normal' wiring strategies unless optioned otherwise.
So here's my suggestions.
1. Don't follow the MAD diagram. (It's a crappy way to do fusible links and a makes a very long rout for power to the main splice. )
2. Do connect the alternator output more directly with the new fuse/distribution box.
3. Decide if you really want a relay to power the new distribution panel. Because it seems to me each of those items probably gets its own relay. Yes? Certainly Line lock gets powered up seperate from the others. If so, then the relays come after the fuses.
This is basic scheme your car came with.
Starter relay is on the fender or the firewall.
Fusible link is after the relay.
Just dealing with protecting the new alternator feed and the new fuse box, it makes most sense to me to use a junction post block. It can be off of the batter or the starter relay. I don't think that matters. This way there can be a maxifuse or link between the post and the battery.
As far as an ammeter goes. It doesn't make much sense keeping it if this is the routing. So you could take it out and also run the feeds through a grommet.
Whether you want to take the feeds off the bulkhead depends on the condition and how much power is still going inside.
Maybe the maximum solution in terms of protection and minimizing resistance going inside would be to have one 16 ga fusible link off of the junction block and then going through a grommet.