Fusible link or not?
Check the field crurrent draw on the Denso. My guess is its 5-7 amps max but dont really know.
So that's in the capability of a typical automotive relay.
Its the fuel pumps and the EFI that will probably add a lot more. Rob (Crackedback) has posted info on HD relays he's used for cuttoff switch systems with battery in the trunk.
If I understand correctly this would be your phase 1 test.
Another way is to run a new alternator output wire to the relay. Then IMO no fusible link is needed before the relay.
For the new wire use at least a 12 gage TXL wire or Marine wire. 10 or 8 ga GXL would be better if this is more than just quick check of concept.
One side benefit of this arrangement is the ammeter still shows battery charging/discharging.
Connecting the ammeter through a bulkhead grommet for the battery charging would take more load off the original alternator output line.
That's a bit more work, but if you're going to drive around for a while like this, then its prob worth it, or wire it like Crackedback said. That is, have a direct connection from the alternator to the battery (with a fusible link or fuse). But if you do that, wire in a voltmeter so you at least have a means to monitor the system as the ammeter will no longer show charging.
Check the field crurrent draw on the Denso. My guess is its 5-7 amps max but dont really know.
So that's in the capability of a typical automotive relay.
Its the fuel pumps and the EFI that will probably add a lot more. Rob (Crackedback) has posted info on HD relays he's used for cuttoff switch systems with battery in the trunk.
If I understand correctly this would be your phase 1 test.
Another way is to run a new alternator output wire to the relay. Then IMO no fusible link is needed before the relay.
For the new wire use at least a 12 gage TXL wire or Marine wire. 10 or 8 ga GXL would be better if this is more than just quick check of concept.
One side benefit of this arrangement is the ammeter still shows battery charging/discharging.
Connecting the ammeter through a bulkhead grommet for the battery charging would take more load off the original alternator output line.
That's a bit more work, but if you're going to drive around for a while like this, then its prob worth it, or wire it like Crackedback said. That is, have a direct connection from the alternator to the battery (with a fusible link or fuse). But if you do that, wire in a voltmeter so you at least have a means to monitor the system as the ammeter will no longer show charging.