Charging issues on a ‘64 Valiant...

For reference:
This is a 'Fleet' type wiring for a 1973 B-body with Chrysler 60-amp alternator.
View attachment 1715503714
It uses a terminal block and two fusible links.


Here's the wiring of a typical 65-69 alternator showing power flow when charging.
A '64 would be similar except no fusible link.
View attachment 1715503716

If you want to use a positive controlling regulator ('70 up type) then the connections have to be changed like this:
View attachment 1715503718
  • Remove the grounding wire from the alternator's brush terminal.
  • Connect this terminal to the green wire on the triangular connector's pigtail.
  • Connect the ignition 1 (run) circuit to both the regulators pigtail's blue wire and the other brush terminal on the alternator.
The ignition 1 (run) wire connection is how the regulator senses voltage.

The original (1964) ignition wire to the regulator may only be 18 ga. I'd suggest running 16 ga to the alternator if you are running a new wire. Also use a wire with oil resistant and higher temperature insulation if possible.

While making suggestions... consider adding 16 ga fusible link at the starter relay. You can buy them with the ring terminal already installed from parts stores. It will be orange (Ford color) instead of blue. Or you can buy a blue with from Evans Wiring. Ask for the B-body link to get the one with the ring terminal for the starter relay on one end.

Those alternations combined with the 'fleet type' bulkhead bypass would end up with a schematic like this.
View attachment 1715503730

I knew the electronic ones worked differently, but I didn’t understand how. What I called a “1 wire fleet bypass” was the wrong terminology. I upgraded to heavier gauge wires, used a grommet, added fusible links, and removed the ammeter. My alternator seems to be converted to 1 field by removing the (insulated washer?) and clipping the spade connector. Am I correct when assuming I can reverse this by adding an insulator washer?
Thanks for the knowledge!