Hotchkis TVS with QA1 lower control arms

BergmanAutoCraft said
I say it's close but not the same. Unless their is a ball joint to account for the misalignment its going to be binding some. Suite yourself. Fits and works properly are two different things.

If you think that the factory mount locations on the LCA's don't vary by a 1/4" (or more!) you're kidding yourself. Like ANY sway bar installation, you'll have to check the range of motion and adjust the end link lengths to make sure everything works. My car has no binding issues, it can be done as long as you just don't slap it on and assume it will work. No aftermarket parts work like that, not even yours. I have a brand new set of LCA pins that are useless to me because they didn't fit your Delrin bushings, despite your recommendation that they were the ones I needed. Start mixing and matching aftermarket parts and you have to actually check things and use some common sense, you can't just assume things were meant to be a certain way just because that's the way they came, or that's what the manufacturer recommended. It's easy to start stacking tolerances even on parts that are supposed to work together. Especially on these old cars, the factory tolerances were very loose and the giant factory rubber bushings made up for a lot of that. Make things stiffer and more accurate and you have to make sure all the tolerances are right and nothing binds.

drewmac said
Ok guys and gals here is where I am at. I got the Hkiss bars finally (holy smokes it is bigger than the stock bar x2 in front!). QA1 arms, 67 k member 67-72 Hkiss bar. The mounts they gave actually bolt up to the stock mounts on the formula S K member (plus 1 new hole and bolt) damn near the same location! Now the arms have to be raised about 1" and then everything bolts together when on stands. At full droop it would not unless I did a little clearancing on the arm and the sway bar. Pics to come as soon as I get a pass lower ball joint.

Would love to see the pictures! As I mentioned above, you may need to alter the length of the end links to make it work within your range of suspension travel. That's always true for every sway bar. I have to do the same thing with pretty much all of my cars because they're lowered and the bump stop heights are altered to recenter the range of travel around the lowered height. The supplied end links are just what the manufacturer thinks works best, but when you start adding other aftermarket parts or changing the ride height adjustments need to be made.