Calling all corner carvers!

black954 said
I wanted to give an update on my front end. This is what I ended up using thanks to a lot of great suggestions from this thread.
First off, I removed the K-member and rewelded all the original welds, then added 4130 sheet metal reinforcements to the idler arm bracket and steering box mounts. Then I bent up my own J-bars tied into the shock towers. I plated the firewall and top of the frame rails with more 4130. The J-bars and short down bars ended up being 4130 1.625”x.095” and the shock tower stubs are 4130 2.0”x.120”. This made the entire front of the incredibly rigid. I then assembled the front with the following components: Doctor Diff spindles, lower ball joints, and Viper 13” brake kit. Then from BAC is the Borgeson quick ratio power steering box, with BACs column adapter. Firm Feel 1.12” race torsion bars with their poly grease boots. Then I used QA1 strut rods, LCA’s, and TB adjusters. I went with the SPC adjustable UCA’s and finally the Hotchkis Fox non-adjustable 1.5 aluminum body shocks. I ordered the 73 and up Hellwig 1.25” sway bar, but I found out the hard way that it won’t work on my 69’ K-member. So i’ll send it back and order the correct sway bar.
As of now, here’s where the car is at. I think it sits a bit low so I’ll raise it up a bit once the engine and complete front end is back on. I can’t thank 72bluNblu for his recommendations on the wheel size and offset. I don’t think the front wheels could have fit any more perfect with all the non-stock components. Once the 2 piece Baer rotors show up, ill see the exact clearance between the calipers and wheel spokes. Right now with 3 washers as spacers, there’s less than 1/8” clearance.

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black954 said
Close to ride height

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Looking good! :thumbsup:

GMachineDartGT said
i had one of these once and returned it. I hope the welding has gotten better as mine was awful and I’m being nice....

gzig5 said
I’ve read similar reports on Miloden quality from time to time too. The Kevco pan I have is solid. I wouldn’t say it is artistic though. I’m sure they all let a lemon out now and again but it’s how they handle it that makes a difference.

I have both a Kevko pan and a Milodon road race pan. The Kevko pan works just fine, but it looks like a home build pan. Function-wise it works fine, it has fewer bells and whistles compared to the Milodon but it's far better than an unmodified stock pan for controlling oil movement. But I could build a pan like that at home and it would look the same. Functional, but not fancy.

The Milodon pan looks like a production made pan. Everything is consistent, well formed and professionally finished. Definitely has all the bells and whistles, lots of little tricks and finer details. It wasn't perfect by any means though, I had to adjust the pick up clearances quite a bit to work with my engine and windage tray. But I had to do the same thing with the Kevko.

I would buy a Kevko vs a stock pan every single time on every build. But for a car I was intending to do some serious autoX or road racing with I'd buy the Milodon. Just my opinion.