DIY floor pans.

Well, like I said, some heads were gonna explode...

Looks like the MOPAR Police are on the scene, Officer 72bluNblu reporting for duty!

First off, "Anyone that repairs metal with fiberglass should have their car confiscated" is just a super D-bag statement. Do you have any idea that there are people out there that can't throw $100 bills around to fix their cars? I bet if you took a poll to see how many FABO members have made a fiberglass repair back in the day, you'd get a whole bunch of guys saying "Yep, I sure did".

Second, "It will speed up the decay of the remaining metal" is just a fear statement. Perhaps you missed the part where I laid out some advice for the OP to put money away every month until he has enough for a replacement pan in a year? Are you really proposing that adding fiberglass will cause such catastrophic decay to the surrounding floor pan, in 12 months, that the car could not be saved? Carbon steel corrosion occurs when the relative humidity of the air is 70% to 80%. These conditions are met or exceeded in Virginia (which is where the OP seems to reside) for 3 out of 12 months in a year. So, you believe that in 1 year the amount of decay would somehow be multiplied exponentially with the addition of fiberglass? I would welcome any evidence, supported by chemical molecular data, that this would be the outcome.

Third, "The fact that you go out of your way to say it's a temporary fix and not to take passengers indicates you already know you're giving terrible advice that will compromise the integrity and safety of the car", would suggest that I am purposely trying to put the OP in harm's way by offering my advice. I would never, ever, make any recommendation that would put another person in danger. Life is precious and fleeting. And, are you seriously taking the stance that some fiberglass in a 3'x3' space would have a disastrous effect on the structural integrity of a 3500lb automobile? Not taking passengers was a bit of a joke that maybe someone might put their foot through the floor. My bad for not spelling that out.

Fourth, "If you find yourself seriously considering repairing metal with fiberglass, it means you're in over your head and do not have the skills to make the needed repairs. Walk away and take it to someone that can do it right before you screw it up worse", that can go 2 ways. If directed to the OP, way to shame someone who might not have the finances to take their car to an $80-$100/hour shop. If directed to me, I'm certainly not going to elaborate on my skill set to prove my "worthiness" to the likes of you. My build is proof enough.

Fifth, "In a very short period of time you'll have to do it all again, and if you didn't have the money to fix it right the first time how are you going to have the money to do it twice", where do I even start with this? Who are you? Honestly, who are you to dictate to the OP that if he "doesn't have the money" to do it YOUR way the first time, then don't bother???? If you are such a high roller-big shot-restoration God then put your money where your mouth is. YOU buy the floor pan and have it shipped to the OP's address. Hell, I'll split it with you. OP says the new pan is $500. You do $250, I'll do $250. That way you can sleep easy at night knowing that there is a car driving around out there that hasn't been hacked up by some amateur, and will still "maintain the structural capabilities of the unibody chassis" as you seem to be so worried about.

The OP made no reference to having any welding equipment, or abilities, in his post. He clearly stated that he needed a solution other than "just buy them". So, I offered up a TEMPORARY solution, followed up by a permanent repair when financially allowable. It's up to the OP to take whatever advice he feels is best and discard the rest.

I am in full agreement that the BEST possible solution is to replace the floor pan with new metal.

If you think I'm the "mopar police" or some "high rolling restoration God" you've obviously never seen my cars, because they make most purists cry. Every single one of your rebuttals is 100% bullshit- yes, will make it worse, and yes, it is UNSAFE. You don't know me, you don't know my background or my finances. My advice is based on being in the same exact position as the OP in the past. And it's based on dealing with repairs made by mouth-breathing dipshits that had no business even trying and who did more damage than was originally there. And finally, its based on having a damn degree in engineering, so you better believe I know about structural integrity and how fiberglass to replace a structural floor member is just stupid. My Challenger looks like a patchwork quilt of repair panels, many of which I made myself and others where I bought only partial sections. Having done all of that, if I had to do it again, I would save longer and buy full panels for about 90% of those repairs.

Fiberglass is a bullshit "repair". Period. It has nothing to do with money, because you can make a perfectly sound temporary repair with 18g sheet metal and sheet metal screws. Throw your sheet metal screws in every 3-4" around the edge, do the same anywhere you pass over a subframe or stiffener, and you'll have a repair that is similar in strength to a properly spot welded replacement pan. Seam seal it on the edges and it will last for years. You don't need a welder for that, and it will probably cost less than a fiberglass repair. Not only that, if you do it right it will keep water out and prevent further rust in the meantime.

Throwing money at cheap, incorrect repairs will always bite you. Every time. I've done it and I regret every time I did. You waste money in the short term to spend more money in the long term because you're screwing it up. If money is tight, be smart with it. Don't waste money on temporary repairs that will make the situation worse. That doesn't mean you can't do anything, it means don't be stupid. I don't care how many people have used fiberglass in the past to repair a floor board, it was stupid every single time it was done on anything other than a fiberglass body. If everyone jumped off a bridge does that make it smart? Sure doesn't.

18g metal, sheet metal screws every 3-4" around the edge and anywhere there's a structural member. You can do all the forming with a 2x4 and a dead blow hammer and make a repair that will last for years with a little seam sealer. It won't be pretty, but it will be 100% functional. No welder, no fancy tools, very little required skill and just as cheap. And when you've saved up you can just unscrew the sheet metal screws and install the proper panel. Easy.

Fiberglass is an acceptable material to use on properly prepared steel. Properly prepared is the key word. Fiberglass is polyester resin, same thing used in body filler and gorilla hair. Its not good to use in areas that flex because it can crack or chip. Seam sealer would be a better choice in those areas. Get rid of all the rust you can and rough it up with some 40 grit to give the resin something to bite to.
You have to do the best job you can do that your budget allows. A full panel will give you the cleanest results with less labor in the end. However, you can do an acceptable job patching if you take your time and blend everything in. It all boils down to time vs money. Good luck with your repair. I will take a look in my parts and see if I have any patch panels I can donate. I dont think I do but I will check my stash and see. Most of the cars I have parted were rusted beyond recognition so not many body panels on hand.

You're talking about bodywork bud. Floorpans on a unibody are structural. Fiberglass is not acceptable. Ever.