Time for 727 rebuild.

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WD40 around the pump, stick a big screwdriver between the sun gear lugs. Pry a little; knock it back in; repeat. But first, pull in and out on the input shaft to determine endplay clearance that needs to be addressed. That kit is loaded with junk that you won't even use; plus it doesn't have stuff that you should have. Pass.
 
Make a pump puller if you need to cheap. I got everything from Lowe’s less that 10 bucks.
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If you're tearing the trans apart anyway, all it takes is a couple whacks on the tail shaft once the proper snap rings and related parts removed from the rear of the trans. Gravity is your friend. No special tool needed since there are plenty of ways to do it without.
 
I've used gravity. WD40, bolts out, tailshaft up and hit the driveway with it. About a six inch slam should do it. Just make sure you don't leave the starter stud in!
 
From post #27, you can use a 2 x 4 instead of the angle iron. You will need a good heavy duty pair of snap ring pliers for the tailshaft removal.
 
Probably pull trans out of car this weekend. Should I pull pan and dump fluid while in car? Looking for suggestions to make the least amount of mess.
 
Probably pull trans out of car this weekend. Should I pull pan and dump fluid while in car? Looking for suggestions to make the least amount of mess.

It wouldn't be a bad idea. But.its only gonna drain a few quarts. So after you pull the drive shaft from the trans end, take some Saran wrap or a ziplock bag over the tailshaft and duct tape it tight. This will help prevent fluid from leaking there.

After the torque converter and bell housing bolts are loose, be careful, lowering the trans. The torque converter is only riding on the pump shaft at that point. Take it slow and if you have the car high enough you can use one of these to wheel it right out, minimizing the chance of the converter taking a dive. That Jack doesn't really tilt, but when I was putting in my A500, it was a life saver. About $80 with a coupon.
 
Transmission is out. Took most of the day, I'm getting old. Was not too bad had trouble getting speedo cable off but got it.

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Pulled transmission apart this afternoon. Went pretty well. The 6 inch drop trick worked really well for removing pump. The front drum and frictions did not look too bad.

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The output shaft support was a different story. Really chewed up and stuck on output shaft. Does it pay to cut it off or do I just get a new output shaft?

The low/reverse drum looked pretty rough along with the band. It was slipping created some heat.

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Suggestions welcome.
 
I forget to add 3 of the sprag roller springs were broke. Looking for a good source to order parts. Thanks.
 
Wow. Good thing you took it apart.
No expert. I did it once. Not terrible. Took my time. Used the shop manual, the other Torqueflite book and some forum posts here and moparts for pics. For parts I went with A&A and just worked with them. I think you could do the same with a couple of the other well reputed guys too. It gave me a level of comfort working with Rick that I was getting the most appropriate stuff for what I was doing. Mine was a little more than a rebuild, but nothing radical. Already had DC/MP shift kit (which was really a Turbo0action shift kit).
 
The outside of the low reverse drum is okay but Idk about the inside. What do the front drums/ clutches look like?
 
You might be able to crack that output support to get it off; otherwise pound on it. The shaft is probably bad; hard telling. A new shaft has to match the planet splines.
 
You might be able to crack that output support to get it off; otherwise pound on it. The shaft is probably bad; hard telling. A new shaft has to match the planet splines.

I was able to split the governor support and remove it from shaft. Unfortunately the shaft had some deep scratches. So I picked up a new support, used output shaft, reverse drum and band locally.

I started to check pieces and the governor support will not go in case. I checked back with shop and they said it was right support. I checked with another shop and he brought out some used one and they were the same.

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So what gives. Do I have a bad case, wrong support? Do I need to sand off some to make fit? How tight of fit is it? I can't check the old one because I split it.

Any one else run into this? Anyone have a support or case they can measure?
 
I have an empty case and a couple supports laying around, I can probably measure to see the difference. I’m not really sure what’s going on there, it should go in without much effort.
 
I just installed an Ultimate sprag in my 727. The rear support in mine was very snug. I never measured it, but it took several good whacks with a 5 lb sledge and a block of wood to tap it in.
 
Ok deleted my last post cause I measured the wrong spot. I have one support that fits the case and one that doesn’t. One slides right in and is the one that came with the case 71’ or later yr. the other came from a 69’ it’s slightly bigger it might fit with force but wasn’t about to try it. I know the hasty measurement looks like neither will fit. I would try tapping it in lightly if it doesn’t go then maybe a light Emory cloth clean up.
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I cleaned it up with emory cloth and sanded down the support with some 180 grit. Was able to get it in with a block of wood and some tapping. Real tight. I think I will take a little more off and put it in the freezer.

Next question, my sprag was a little loose and some of the spring tabs were bent. I took it out and it has quite a bit of wear. So I plan on replacing it. Should I look at a bolt in or is a regular one good enough for my application?
 
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