Distributor refresh gone wrong

Let's start with the basics........do you actually have spark? How to check........"Rig" (or buy a spark test gap) a spark plug and rig a solid core wire. Rig it up so you can see it say, through the hood gap. Crank the engine USING THE KEY. This is important, as it retains the wiring that would be used if trying to start. When you jumper the starter relay manually, things change. You should have a nice hot blue, snappy spark about 3/8" or longer

If the engine did not move, and you are sure the rotor is in the same place, then the timing should be close. Bear in mind that "new" points and condenser does not mean "good and operational." Points can be badly manufactured, defective, and modern condensers (capacitors) are even worse. It is not uncommon in these old girls for the distributor lead to be "rotten" and develop a short going through the dist. wire hole, or even break internally. "You" getting in there and moving around might be all it took.

Timing light: Get busy on Craigslist and find a used one. YOU CAN SET timing fairly accurately IF YOU ARE CAREFUL the "static" method which used to be used on VW bugs

DO NOT GUESS on compression / firing stroke, do this: "Rig" something (I guess your finger doesn't reach) into the no1 plug hole to "feel" for compression. You can gut an old plug and put a fitting on there, buy a spark plug air fitting, or if you have a compression tester you are all set. Remove other plugs to make this easier

now with your test device, whatever you are using, in place, hand crank or "starter bump" the engine until you start to get compression. STOP!! Now revolve the crank by hand, until the timing marks are aligned NOT on TDC, but where you want timing set, say, 6BTC.

NOW rig a test lamp on the coil NEG wire, or disconnect dist. wire and rig a continuity device, light, meter, to the wire. Rotate dist. CW (retard) and make sure points are CLOSED. Slowly rotate dist. CCW (advanced) until points open JUST OPEN. Snug down the dist. and start the engine.

Before you do that, recheck is the rotor and dist cap in good condition? Clean/ dry, no metallic between contacts? As you replace the cap and without moving the engine --after static time--is the rotor "approaching" the no1 wire tower going CW? Are the plug wires correct?