Rally dash redo
I don't know if its a bullet connector or what. It could be.
Next time I'll try to peek in with a dental mirror unless someone here clues us in.
Should be a way to remove the switch without twisting the heck out of the wire.
The TE [formerly AMP] terminal 41124 is the closest I was able to find. It's for a #10 stud and 10-12 AWG wires. (Automotive wire uses a slightly smaller gage size, but you're using 10 ga automotive that terminal will be fine.
I'm adding a direct wire from the alternator using terminal stud and grommet on the firewall like the factory 60 amp setup. Undecided about the battery feed, but as of now I think I'm going to use the original factory wires at the ammeter.
Steve. I was going to remove the driver's side switch on my car today but couldn't see how to access the connector.
I don't know if its a bullet connector or what. It could be.
Next time I'll try to peek in with a dental mirror unless someone here clues us in.
Should be a way to remove the switch without twisting the heck out of the wire.
One catch here seems to be getting a ring terminal thats long enough to bend away from the circuit board. Then do a nice heat shrink job.
The TE [formerly AMP] terminal 41124 is the closest I was able to find. It's for a #10 stud and 10-12 AWG wires. (Automotive wire uses a slightly smaller gage size, but you're using 10 ga automotive that terminal will be fine.
I'm adding a direct wire from the alternator using terminal stud and grommet on the firewall like the factory 60 amp setup. Undecided about the battery feed, but as of now I think I'm going to use the original factory wires at the ammeter.