Burning oil

Charlesvolare said
It's been a little over a month of no smoke and it's started back again....

During this time I've driven the car a lot, including 700 interstate miles in one day. With my 3.55 gearing I cruised most of it at 3000rpm/65mph. No issues.

I recently installed a locker and new rear leafs, so today I spent most of the afternoon driving, a lot down gravel and dirt roads to test everything out. A lot of relatively low rpm, low speed driving. I did go through a tunnel and rev it a few times but nothing crazy. No high rpm pulls or anything. I noticed sitting at a red light on my way home it was smoking again.

Is it possible to fuel wash or unseat/unmate the rings to the bore by reving? Carb was completely rebuilt less than a month ago and working properly so maybe something with oiling the cylinder walls?

Another things is I changed the oil last week and it has about the same time on the fresh oil as it did the last time it started. Maybe an issue with the oil itself? It's Driven GP-1 15w-40 synthetic

The rings should have been seated 2 minutes after break in, and I don’t care about surface finish and ring material. If they haven’t seated by 2, 3 minutes MAX they aren’t coming in. It’s junk. Pull it apart and fix it.

Any oil should work. This nonsense about rings taking miles and miles to break in is at best a giant lie. Every ring manufacturer I know of either belt laps or barrel laps EVERY ring before it goes in the box. Been that way for 30 years. Or more.

I hate to tell you the truth because the truth is wildly unpopular. It’s not going to fix itself. Take it apart, deglaze the bores, buy some cast iron rings and when you put it together, use a very small amount of oil on the skirts ONLY. Nothing on the rings. The rings go in dry.

When you start it, the rings will be seated and it won’t smoke or burn oil.

This ain’t rocket science. The rings are done. Replace them.