What does it cost?

-
Well for me i do try to do as much of the work as i can and feel comfortable doing. I have learned 2 things, Horse power and body work and paint are not cheap. lol I blew the entire car apart, and assembled everything in my garage over a 4 year period, i just subbed out the stuff i wasn't comfortable with or had the skill set to do correctly. You cant build cars for nothing like you could back in the day.
 
Last edited:
Cheapest way to build our old cars is to start with as complete a car as possible, and as straight and rust free as can. Pay a little more . Like jst said, everything we do is expensive. But a good paint job can be done by anyone that wants to learn and can acquire the needed equipment. Good primers/paints are there and yes expensive but do not cost $1000 a gal.
A $45 spray gun dos not have the same capability of a $800 gun, but a guy can shoot plenty go with the cheap gun.
A $600 mig welder will do any body work and anyone can be taught to weld.
Anyone can learn engine bulding. Better yet find a way to get a good running engine CHEAP and make it better CHEAP as possible. Deep pockets , just buy the best of everything when you do not need the best!
Bodywork? Hard nasty work, that is why shops charge. Anyone can learn if they want. Mess up? Just redo it and fix it!! Are you anal retentive? Just pay a shop to do it and make it all perfect!! !!!??? lol
 
Update. Decided entire car gets new RM Diamont paint ($450 per quart). All the AMd sheet metal cost me $$1,800. Both new qtrs, spare tire well and the trunk dropoffs. Paint, welding, other materials are coming to $6,500 grand total. My guy has been doing collision and restoration work for 50 years and he's a Mopar guy and owner of 3 ea. 1962 Fury's. 1st picture is current state before going in for some love. The others are happening to my car now. I'm limited on how many pictures I can upload. You get the picture/process.

parade of the 69.jpg


DSCN5983.JPG


DSCN5984.JPG


DSCN5985.JPG


DSCN5986.JPG


DSCN5987.JPG


DSCN6461.JPG


DSCN6458.JPG


DSCN6088.JPG


20190913_095530.jpg
 
I'm not sure this is the correct forum for this thread as I have already done
a restoration thread on my 'Cuda. What I wanted to share with you folks
is how we end up investing so much money into our cars.

There are several of you out there that think A bodies aren't worth very
much in our market today. That's probably the case as our A bodies were
never meant to bring high dollars even when new.

This thread is for you guys and gals thinking about doing a restoration on
your ride and have no idea what you might be in for. I realize you can
stop at anytime you want on your project but for the purpose of this
thread, lets not do that. Lets give this project everything it needs from
start to finish...within reason of course.

Lets get started...where's the calculator:sad7:

The initial investment and the type of car you start with if very important.
My initial investment was $2500.00. That sounded very reasonable to me
back in 2006 for a '67 'Cuda fastback. At that time I didn't realize the
differences between the slant 6 and the V8 drive train. My plan was to
build a V8 car when I bought it. Found out it wasn't wise to use small
drum brakes, small 7-1/4 rear end, small diameter torsion bars, anyway
you get the idea.

New disc brakes and spindles with large ball joints and upper control
arms added $1130.00. Used 340 torsion bars were $40.00 and a used
8-3/4 rear end was another $300.00. The cost of new Moser axles and
preparing the "C" body 8-3/4 was another $606.00. Add in another
$336.00 for a new ring and pinion and bearing set. Now tack on another
$100.00 for the gear set up. Starting to add up and we haven't even
started yet. I'm not trying to scare you, just telling you the facts from
my experience.

We will also need some wheels and tires. $50.00 for used steel 15" x 7" wheels
$290.00 to powder coat the wheels. Red line tires were another $985.16

Engine and tranny redo plus labor and the install was $8830.00. MSD stuff
was $554.00

Paint and body work added another $9000.00

The following is a list of stuff I had to buy for the 'Cuda because a lot of
this stuff was gone or in bad shape. Bear with me...

Radiator $384, fuel tank strap $37, front brake line kit $58, fan shroud
$192(junk re pop), fuel sending unit $159, spring shackle pkg. $70, leaf
springs $200, shift knob $25, flip fuel cap $120, deluxe screw kit $44,
glove box liner $22, roof rail weatherstrip $90, seat belts $100, front
fender patch $63, wheel lip molding screws $22, door panel clips $40,
seat buns $206, fuel tank $233, fish in a circle(2) $60, Chrysler star
emblem $13, ign/door lock kit $35, trunk lock kit $17, gas strap bolt $23,
center console $250, steering wheel $100, dog dish caps $71, radio $40
vents and cover $56, wiper knob $12, dash pad $78, bumper end brkts
$63, ash tray $37, fold down trunk panel $115, shift linkage $54, tie rod
ends/sleeves/brake parts $390, dash bezel/arm rest re chrome $677
fiberglass hood/scoop/hardware $760, window trim clips $47, window gaskets $179,
trunk mat $46, side glass weatherstrip $100, TTI exhaust system
$685, hose clamp kit $13, carpet $375, front glass $260, rear glass $790
tail light bezels $595, clips and misc screws $25, torsion bar support repair
parts $280, quarter panel skin $228, fuel and brake lines $128, tach $200
tach harness $30, remote mirror $277, trunk weather strip $39, fish
fender emblems $68, barracuda script $78, right tail light lens $132
p-l-y-m-o-u-t-h emblem $69, fuel tank pad $17, bumpers $760,
flex plate $111, seat covers $484, door panels $374, motor mounts $75,
redo drive shaft $160, trans brkt $41, emerg brake cable $95, drum brake
hardware $45, misc Year One gaskets, decals screws $57, control arm cam/shaft kit
$59, poly trans mount $40, door handles $195, window cranks $94, fender
splash shields $234, jack instructions $8, misc decals $35, antenna $174,
install headliner $150, wheel lip moldings $250, trunk trim $275, damper $100
pinion snubber $69, fan $33, mini starter $160, power coat dash frame
twice $300, hoses/clamps $298, back up lights $160

I probably have missed some stuff here but you get the jest of it when you
start with a car that needs everything like mine did. I started to use more used
stuff but the condition of it wasn't that good.

By using mostly new items I have created a car that I am very proud to
own and drive. It will never be sold (will be passed on to our daughter
Tonya and her husband Chris).

Our total investment is north of $38,700 and yes the car would never
bring that on the open market but that doesn't really bother me.

I hope this sheds some light on the restoration process and gives you
some data on what you might have ahead of you if you decide to take
the plunge. Good luck to you if you do.

Tony

You can view my restoration thread here:

My 1967 Cuda Restoration
.
.
.
.
.
Way back when we all fell in love with these cars it wasn't about money, it's about building something out of passion, bragging rights racing or just plain showing off.
I don't let every decision be ruled by a calculator .
 
Working on our cars is definitely a labor of love. I have owned my A-66 vert since 1979 and it is a "member of the family". The cost of labor for mechanics and body work is very high. I could not see myself letting it ever go! Understandably, no one wants to work for nothing. Unless you have deep pockets and a car worth 6 figures, it is difficult to justify the cost of having professionals do everything. I worked as a mechanic in the 1970's and my skills in this area are old; but perfect for my 50 year old Challenger. In my case, the body work is the issue. I am no body man, but I am updating my skills in the welding area, and go slow in making the body repairs. I learn as I go with the help of some Utube videos, and patience. I am also contemplating learning to paint a car. Single stage as was original and non-metallic helps. I was also thinking about talking to a local body shop who may rent me their paint booth on a weekend and use my general equipment. As it is, I have over 30K in mechanical and body sheet metal I have either saved or bought recently and giving it a shot. The restorations taking place on the forebodies, forabodies, forbodies and other forums are
indispensable as we share our work and knowledge with everyone. If you have a decent mechanical skills, common sense, and take your time. It is doable. And a willingness to learn something new. Trial fitting my new two piece trunk; feeling good with it. Give it a shot. It is worth the financial benefit.

IMG_5148 (1).JPG
 
A great post!! The $$$ can be daunting!! The willingness to DIY is huge here. Sometimes we all have to admit that a task is beyond our capabilities, BUT... Trying and learning can be half the fun, and the pride of "I did this!" has a value beyond calculation!! There are a few things Ive learned over the years that can make a seemingly unaffordable dream become reality.
*Network!! Meeting local people with resources/parts/skills is huge!!
*Use your day job!! For instance, if youre an electrician, maybe the body shop guy needs his kitchen rewired... Trade your skills for someone else's!!
*Be consistent. If your searching for a certain part, a car, or whatever, do it every day, a few times!! Thats the only way to catch "the deals" when they pop up!! (And they will!!)
*Share your hobby. Even non car guys have an uncle with "an old Dodge" in their shed. Even that kid with the "fart can exhaust" Honda could be a source of somthing for your build. So dont discriminate!! Youll never find out if you dont talk to people about your interests!!
*Reference materials. If you dont know somthing...crack a book!! Now we have online sources, youtube, etc so its even easier!! Beware of taking online stuff as gospel of course, and invest in proper manuals. But, fact is, you can do this. Dont be afraid to try!!
*Be realistic with the end result!! If you arent going racing, your daily driver block doesnt need expensive align boring and torque plate honing!! Im not saying ignore flaws or cut corners, but "in-spec" works. 'Perfect' is the enemy of 'good enough'!!!
*Lo-buck doesnt mean a poor job. Doing things on the cheap can still have excellent results. "$$$=quality" is not always true.
*Rebuild instead of replace. You can save tons through a build if you learn to troubleshoot and repair things rather than replace them. Engines, transmissions, alternators, starters, radiators, distributors... Almost every part on your car can be repaired cheaper than replacing it!! Every dollar you save can be spent on things you cant/wont do!!
These are just thoughts for someone taking the plunge. Ive been lo/no buck most of my life, and of all the great Mopars (5 68 Chargers, 70 Challenger TA clone, 67 Dart GT, all restorations) Ive had over the years, my crowning achievement was probably the under-$3500 68 Dart a decade ago... A reliable daily for years,with a 440 that dipped into the 11s on the weekends. No she wasnt done, still needed front seats redone, and paint, but more time and another $1500 would have seen her finished. The fact that did it all myself, super cheap, made her prettier in my eyes than all the shiny, perfect ones before her. So a tiny budget, coupled with your time and motivation CAN see good results!!!
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure this is the correct forum for this thread as I have already done
a restoration thread on my 'Cuda. What I wanted to share with you folks
is how we end up investing so much money into our cars.

There are several of you out there that think A bodies aren't worth very
much in our market today. That's probably the case as our A bodies were
never meant to bring high dollars even when new.

This thread is for you guys and gals thinking about doing a restoration on
your ride and have no idea what you might be in for. I realize you can
stop at anytime you want on your project but for the purpose of this
thread, lets not do that. Lets give this project everything it needs from
start to finish...within reason of course.

Lets get started...where's the calculator:sad7:

The initial investment and the type of car you start with if very important.
My initial investment was $2500.00. That sounded very reasonable to me
back in 2006 for a '67 'Cuda fastback. At that time I didn't realize the
differences between the slant 6 and the V8 drive train. My plan was to
build a V8 car when I bought it. Found out it wasn't wise to use small
drum brakes, small 7-1/4 rear end, small diameter torsion bars, anyway
you get the idea.

New disc brakes and spindles with large ball joints and upper control
arms added $1130.00. Used 340 torsion bars were $40.00 and a used
8-3/4 rear end was another $300.00. The cost of new Moser axles and
preparing the "C" body 8-3/4 was another $606.00. Add in another
$336.00 for a new ring and pinion and bearing set. Now tack on another
$100.00 for the gear set up. Starting to add up and we haven't even
started yet. I'm not trying to scare you, just telling you the facts from
my experience.

We will also need some wheels and tires. $50.00 for used steel 15" x 7" wheels
$290.00 to powder coat the wheels. Red line tires were another $985.16

Engine and tranny redo plus labor and the install was $8830.00. MSD stuff
was $554.00

Paint and body work added another $9000.00

The following is a list of stuff I had to buy for the 'Cuda because a lot of
this stuff was gone or in bad shape. Bear with me...

Radiator $384, fuel tank strap $37, front brake line kit $58, fan shroud
$192(junk re pop), fuel sending unit $159, spring shackle pkg. $70, leaf
springs $200, shift knob $25, flip fuel cap $120, deluxe screw kit $44,
glove box liner $22, roof rail weatherstrip $90, seat belts $100, front
fender patch $63, wheel lip molding screws $22, door panel clips $40,
seat buns $206, fuel tank $233, fish in a circle(2) $60, Chrysler star
emblem $13, ign/door lock kit $35, trunk lock kit $17, gas strap bolt $23,
center console $250, steering wheel $100, dog dish caps $71, radio $40
vents and cover $56, wiper knob $12, dash pad $78, bumper end brkts
$63, ash tray $37, fold down trunk panel $115, shift linkage $54, tie rod
ends/sleeves/brake parts $390, dash bezel/arm rest re chrome $677
fiberglass hood/scoop/hardware $760, window trim clips $47, window gaskets $179,
trunk mat $46, side glass weatherstrip $100, TTI exhaust system
$685, hose clamp kit $13, carpet $375, front glass $260, rear glass $790
tail light bezels $595, clips and misc screws $25, torsion bar support repair
parts $280, quarter panel skin $228, fuel and brake lines $128, tach $200
tach harness $30, remote mirror $277, trunk weather strip $39, fish
fender emblems $68, barracuda script $78, right tail light lens $132
p-l-y-m-o-u-t-h emblem $69, fuel tank pad $17, bumpers $760,
flex plate $111, seat covers $484, door panels $374, motor mounts $75,
redo drive shaft $160, trans brkt $41, emerg brake cable $95, drum brake
hardware $45, misc Year One gaskets, decals screws $57, control arm cam/shaft kit
$59, poly trans mount $40, door handles $195, window cranks $94, fender
splash shields $234, jack instructions $8, misc decals $35, antenna $174,
install headliner $150, wheel lip moldings $250, trunk trim $275, damper $100
pinion snubber $69, fan $33, mini starter $160, power coat dash frame
twice $300, hoses/clamps $298, back up lights $160

I probably have missed some stuff here but you get the jest of it when you
start with a car that needs everything like mine did. I started to use more used
stuff but the condition of it wasn't that good.

By using mostly new items I have created a car that I am very proud to
own and drive. It will never be sold (will be passed on to our daughter
Tonya and her husband Chris).

Our total investment is north of $38,700 and yes the car would never
bring that on the open market but that doesn't really bother me.

I hope this sheds some light on the restoration process and gives you
some data on what you might have ahead of you if you decide to take
the plunge. Good luck to you if you do.

Tony

You can view my restoration thread here:

My 1967 Cuda Restoration
.
.
.
.
.
This a is really good thread , You likely spent more then the car is worth but what you have is total piece of mind and knowledge of how your car was built and what parts were used , to me that priceless
 
I'm guessing he isn't with us anymore? At least here his thread can live on
Sadly Tony is now one of our gone, but not forgotten Legendary Members. I never met him, but he apparently put up a good fight with his health issues. God took him home a few years back.
 
I have finally been able to justify the money I have spent on the present Demon I am working on. It is plain and simple therapy for me. I had paid a psychiatrist $70 an hour for consultation. i easily have over a thousand hours logged in on the Demon. That is time that may have helped the doc put a kid through school had i paid for it. I would not have had the conversations I have had with people I first knew through that car It has taken me coast to coast in search of parts and things to feed its restoration.
 
here;s my 2 cents on the subject..i have been in the restoration buis for nearly 40 years. although not cars. i restore antique harley davidson motorcycles for folks. we will leave the "Stupid" money cars/bikes out.. (in the bike world 36 to 40 knuckleheads in the mopar world any factory hemi car or a superbird.)
the magic number is 25,000. you can either buy a 25,000 dollar bike or or car Done. or build the same bike or car for the same 25,000 depending on how much you pay for the beginning hulk.
it's gona cost 25 Grand .if you pay 10 grand for the car/bike ,expect to pay another 15 grand to make it "right"
and then we have the "How Right"factor
OEM parts or AFTERMARKET parts.
but long story short... you can expect to pay about 25,000 one way or the other.. you can cut that down some doing your own labor... but then again your time is still worth something
Pete
I'm not sure this is the correct forum for this thread as I have already done
a restoration thread on my 'Cuda. What I wanted to share with you folks
is how we end up investing so much money into our cars.

There are several of you out there that think A bodies aren't worth very
much in our market today. That's probably the case as our A bodies were
never meant to bring high dollars even when new.

This thread is for you guys and gals thinking about doing a restoration on
your ride and have no idea what you might be in for. I realize you can
stop at anytime you want on your project but for the purpose of this
thread, lets not do that. Lets give this project everything it needs from
start to finish...within reason of course.

Lets get started...where's the calculator:sad7:

The initial investment and the type of car you start with if very important.
My initial investment was $2500.00. That sounded very reasonable to me
back in 2006 for a '67 'Cuda fastback. At that time I didn't realize the
differences between the slant 6 and the V8 drive train. My plan was to
build a V8 car when I bought it. Found out it wasn't wise to use small
drum brakes, small 7-1/4 rear end, small diameter torsion bars, anyway
you get the idea.

New disc brakes and spindles with large ball joints and upper control
arms added $1130.00. Used 340 torsion bars were $40.00 and a used
8-3/4 rear end was another $300.00. The cost of new Moser axles and
preparing the "C" body 8-3/4 was another $606.00. Add in another
$336.00 for a new ring and pinion and bearing set. Now tack on another
$100.00 for the gear set up. Starting to add up and we haven't even
started yet. I'm not trying to scare you, just telling you the facts from
my experience.

We will also need some wheels and tires. $50.00 for used steel 15" x 7" wheels
$290.00 to powder coat the wheels. Red line tires were another $985.16

Engine and tranny redo plus labor and the install was $8830.00. MSD stuff
was $554.00

Paint and body work added another $9000.00

The following is a list of stuff I had to buy for the 'Cuda because a lot of
this stuff was gone or in bad shape. Bear with me...

Radiator $384, fuel tank strap $37, front brake line kit $58, fan shroud
$192(junk re pop), fuel sending unit $159, spring shackle pkg. $70, leaf
springs $200, shift knob $25, flip fuel cap $120, deluxe screw kit $44,
glove box liner $22, roof rail weatherstrip $90, seat belts $100, front
fender patch $63, wheel lip molding screws $22, door panel clips $40,
seat buns $206, fuel tank $233, fish in a circle(2) $60, Chrysler star
emblem $13, ign/door lock kit $35, trunk lock kit $17, gas strap bolt $23,
center console $250, steering wheel $100, dog dish caps $71, radio $40
vents and cover $56, wiper knob $12, dash pad $78, bumper end brkts
$63, ash tray $37, fold down trunk panel $115, shift linkage $54, tie rod
ends/sleeves/brake parts $390, dash bezel/arm rest re chrome $677
fiberglass hood/scoop/hardware $760, window trim clips $47, window gaskets $179,
trunk mat $46, side glass weatherstrip $100, TTI exhaust system
$685, hose clamp kit $13, carpet $375, front glass $260, rear glass $790
tail light bezels $595, clips and misc screws $25, torsion bar support repair
parts $280, quarter panel skin $228, fuel and brake lines $128, tach $200
tach harness $30, remote mirror $277, trunk weather strip $39, fish
fender emblems $68, barracuda script $78, right tail light lens $132
p-l-y-m-o-u-t-h emblem $69, fuel tank pad $17, bumpers $760,
flex plate $111, seat covers $484, door panels $374, motor mounts $75,
redo drive shaft $160, trans brkt $41, emerg brake cable $95, drum brake
hardware $45, misc Year One gaskets, decals screws $57, control arm cam/shaft kit
$59, poly trans mount $40, door handles $195, window cranks $94, fender
splash shields $234, jack instructions $8, misc decals $35, antenna $174,
install headliner $150, wheel lip moldings $250, trunk trim $275, damper $100
pinion snubber $69, fan $33, mini starter $160, power coat dash frame
twice $300, hoses/clamps $298, back up lights $160

I probably have missed some stuff here but you get the jest of it when you
start with a car that needs everything like mine did. I started to use more used
stuff but the condition of it wasn't that good.

By using mostly new items I have created a car that I am very proud to
own and drive. It will never be sold (will be passed on to our daughter
Tonya and her husband Chris).

Our total investment is north of $38,700 and yes the car would never
bring that on the open market but that doesn't really bother me.

I hope this sheds some light on the restoration process and gives you
some data on what you might have ahead of you if you decide to take
the plunge. Good luck to you if you do.

Tony

You can view my restoration thread here:

My 1967 Cuda Restoration
.
.
.
.
.
 
here;s my 2 cents on the subject..i have been in the restoration buis for nearly 40 years. although not cars. i restore antique harley davidson motorcycles for folks. we will leave the "Stupid" money cars/bikes out.. (in the bike world 36 to 40 knuckleheads in the mopar world any factory hemi car or a superbird.)
the magic number is 25,000. you can either buy a 25,000 dollar bike or or car Done. or build the same bike or car for the same 25,000 depending on how much you pay for the beginning hulk.
it's gona cost 25 Grand .if you pay 10 grand for the car/bike ,expect to pay another 15 grand to make it "right"
and then we have the "How Right"factor
OEM parts or AFTERMARKET parts.
but long story short... you can expect to pay about 25,000 one way or the other.. you can cut that down some doing your own labor... but then again your time is still worth something
Pete

I agree it will cost about 25k. I have restored 3 cars in the last 4 years with the initial cost of them from $2500 to $6000 and including the cost of the car to 100% restore _everything_ to like new condition it was around $25k-$30k and the only thing I did not do myself was the automatic transmission rebuilds and building the engine long block. Throw in a $30k paint job (I have around $6k in materials per car doing it myself with quality materials) and that number climbs FAST.
 
it's very odd . like i said in my opening line..25G is the magic number doesn't matter if it's antique/ vintage bike or a 340 swinger. 25G is what your gona spend.
sort of makes it easy for to give a customer a price quote. i just ask them what they paid for the hulk and add it up to 25g
Paint and i have a love hate relation ship no matter how much work i put into restoring a rusted hulk with a tree growing through it... the VERY FIRST thing people ask is... WHO DID THE PAINT? ACK!!!!!! lol
n /
I agree it will cost about 25k. I have restored 3 cars in the last 4 years with the initial cost of them from $2500 to $6000 and including the cost of the car to 100% restore _everything_ to like new condition it was around $25k-$30k and the only thing I did not do myself was the automatic transmission rebuilds and building the engine long block. Throw in a $30k paint job (I have around $6k in materials per car doing it myself with quality materials) and that number climbs FAST.
 
Last edited:
I tell everyone to buy a done car , keep in mind the only thing you need to like is the paint , the rest of the parts can be unbolted and changed . Also keep in mind the body and paint , although expensive is the cheaper part of your build , interiors are running 5 to 8 grand now , good eng and trans are easily 10 grand , front suspension 2 grand , it adds up quick , a nice done cars can be had for usually a third of the cost to build one . Now if the car you wonna build has a some attachment in your life then theres no other choice then build it . Right now there are alot of really nice done cars available and a good deal can be had .
 
I tell everyone to buy a done car , keep in mind the only thing you need to like is the paint , the rest of the parts can be unbolted and changed . Also keep in mind the body and paint , although expensive is the cheaper part of your build , interiors are running 5 to 8 grand now , good eng and trans are easily 10 grand , front suspension 2 grand , it adds up quick , a nice done cars can be had for usually a third of the cost to build one . Now if the car you wonna build has a some attachment in your life then theres no other choice then build it . Right now there are alot of really nice done cars available and a good deal can be had .

That seems to be a variable depending on where you live. I am getting an entirely new interior for the Dart done including door panels at a family place that has been around for 35 years. He does amazing work and the entire job is costing me $1100. My local machine shop is a one man show and for complete rebuilds that I get back a restored to like new, assembled to a long block I have yet to pay over $4000 and that includes things like installing oversized valves, pinning cracked blocks, etc.. But yes I have seen a lot of people say they are getting quotes in the range you are saying.
 
5 to 8 grand on an interior?? I buy pre stitched repop legendary seat covers, padding, hog rings, and do all that myself. Door panels, carpet, headliner. At most $2,000 in materials.
 
Ha ! Dislamer: prices may vary. Your results might be different. LOL!!!

I sort of agree with that $25000 figure on a done car, and yes done to what extent!? Every nut and bolt job? Work done by who?? What model?

A 69 Charger RT roller that needs every piece of sheetmetal, that the guy gave $10,000 for or a 67 273 2 bbl Barracuda he gave $2500 for that was decent solid?? Who did the work Gas *** Monkey Gargare or a talentd mechanic turned body man on weekends and after work? A person can spend a lot of $$ IF he has to have every not bolt rebuilt, pays everyone to do everything. Everything is relative. Good work is good work whether done by an amateur or an $80 per our shop with 4 guys working on it?

$6000 for paint materials? Get a quote of PPG's good stuff. Sure a man can spend more. Sure, I see people say they spend $1500/ gal. Crazy maybe?


People can ask stupid $ for so much today. Rusted out hulks for how much!???? Missing half their parts.

Can YOU do the work DO you have to pay it done, HOW many years will it take?? IN that case better look around and buy a solid car that is maybe an older resto and IF you drive it just drive it. Do you require perfect????

$10000 in a rebuilt engine/trans? Wow!!!! Nuts. JMHO
 
-
Back
Top