Radiator question

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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As i get closer to getting the engine ready I'm trying to prep for things to come. And my radiator is a big concern of mine. I have my slant six radiator it's a newer replacement one from advance it dont have alot of miles on it. But will it be big enough to cool the 360? I know there is an issue with the top hose being on the wrong side but I think I can solve that. Do yall think it will be enough to cool or should I look for a better radiator?
 
In a word .... No.

Just like tools the right one for the job.

Unless your 360 is other then a mild rebuild, just buy a stock repo that will bolt in. If given an option for heavy duty cooling or not go with the heavy duty version.

Also pick up a stock 7 blade fan.

I'm not a fan of shrouds, electric fans, or thermostatic controlled mechanical fans. The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble.

That's my 2 cents
 
FWIW champion radiators can be had for cheap and work great. I have one in my 63 /6. They have american made options for a little more money.
 
I would go with something made by Griffin. You are gifted enough to use one of their universal fit radiators. I would measure for room and put the biggest one in it that money can buy. The universal fit ones are not terribly high. They are all very good quality though and will cool like a polar bear's butt on ice.
 
Dana67Dart said:
In a word .... No.

Just like tools the right one for the job.

Unless your 360 is other then a mild rebuild, just buy a stock repo that will bolt in. If given an option for heavy duty cooling or not go with the heavy duty version.

Also pick up a stock 7 blade fan.

I'm not a fan of shrouds, electric fans, or thermostatic controlled mechanical fans. The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble.

That's my 2 cents
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I have the original clutch and fan to the 360. I also have a truck 360 radiator but it wont fit into the dart. I appreciate your input thanks
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would go with something made by Griffin. You are gifted enough to use one of their universal fit radiators. I would measure for room and put the biggest one in it that money can buy. The universal fit ones are not terribly high. They are all very good quality though and will cool like a polar bear's butt on ice.
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I will give them a look thank you
 
What is the correct inlet and outlet position for small block abodys?
 
Top left bottom right. Does that sound right? That's what my memory is telling me lol
 
You don't say what year you have but looks like it may be 75. I have a 74 and put in a 26" and had a 22" originally. I had to make some new holes in the rad support and it's slightly blocked, because I don't want to cut the rad. support opening. I have, I believe a Champion CU499 and it works well.
 
tonysrt said:
You don't say what year you have but looks like it may be 75. I have a 74 and put in a 26" and had a 22" originally. I had to make some new holes in the rad support and it's slightly blocked, because I don't want to cut the rad. support opening. I have, I believe a Champion CU499 and it works well.
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Yes it's a 75. I was wondering what the difference is because all the aftermarket radiators I have found say for darts 67-72 I wonder what all changed with the support after 72? I will look up the champion I have looked at them before
 
The front ends were redesigned in '73-'76 . The '67-'72 were (as far as I know) were all 22" except for /6 , which (as far as I know) were 16 1/2" . THE aftermarket attempts to make radiators to fit A,B,C and D bodies in one radiator which , IMO, is b.s.. One size does NOT fit all .
 
383Scampman said:
The front ends were redesigned in '73-'76 . The '67-'72 were (as far as I know) were all 22" except for /6 , which (as far as I know) were 16 1/2" . THE aftermarket attempts to make radiators to fit A,B,C and D bodies in one radiator which , IMO, is b.s.. One size does NOT fit all .
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Yea everything that I found says 67-72 us beakers dont get no love! Haha I wouldn't mind getting a 72 and modifying it to fit. That dont bother me none. I have that truck radiator I may get it out and measure and see if I can make it work but IIRC it's too tall.
 
I was reading that a F body radiator will fit directly into a 73-76 a body is this accurate? If so this would help alot they are quite a bit cheaper
 
Champion 4 core 22" is the ticket for ultimate cooling. My built 340 hasn't reached 180° yet but then i am running a 160° t stat and mild temp here so far this year. The 26" will fit but gets blocked some and you do have to redrill the mounting holes. Bottom inlet on pass side. Top on drivers side.
 
dartfreak75 said:
I was reading that a F body radiator will fit directly into a 73-76 a body is this accurate? If so this would help alot they are quite a bit cheaper
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I get ahold of the Cold Case radiator guy that is here on FABO. I used an ECP radiator and it will cool down my engine right to 170 (I run a 170 degree Stewart Components thermostat) on over 100 degree days. My biggest complaints are I didn’t want to drill holes in the core support to get it to fit (I had to and I did it but I didn’t want to, but after several years it appears almost anything you buy will require a bit of drilling and filing to get it in there) and the overflow nipple points the wrong direction. I know, that’s a bit anal, but it pissed me off a bit. But it works and works well I live in a high desert valley and it gets HOT here, for weeks and I can drive anywhere.

That said, I’d still do the Cold Case radiator because FABO gets a discount and it looks like a great radiator. And, all you need is 2 cores. 2 BIG cores. IIRC, the Cold Case radiator is two 1.25 inch cores. That’s why you want.

Buy a Milodon or Flowkooler high flow waterpump. Get a Stewart Components thermostat. Make DAMN SURE your water pump is turning faster than crank speed. Use a good mechanical fan.

You do all that, and you’ll be able to drive through hell and wave at satan and not worry about overheating. Even in hell.
 
yellow rose said:
I get ahold of the Cold Case radiator guy that is here on FABO. I used an ECP radiator and it will cool down my engine right to 170 (I run a 170 degree Stewart Components thermostat) on over 100 degree days. My biggest complaints are I didn’t want to drill holes in the core support to get it to fit (I had to and I did it but I didn’t want to, but after several years it appears almost anything you buy will require a bit of drilling and filing to get it in there) and the overflow nipple points the wrong direction. I know, that’s a bit anal, but it pissed me off a bit. But it works and works well I live in a high desert valley and it gets HOT here, for weeks and I can drive anywhere.

That said, I’d still do the Cold Case radiator because FABO gets a discount and it looks like a great radiator. And, all you need is 2 cores. 2 BIG cores. IIRC, the Cold Case radiator is two 1.25 inch cores. That’s why you want.

Buy a Milodon or Flowkooler high flow waterpump. Get a Stewart Components thermostat. Make DAMN SURE your water pump is turning faster than crank speed. Use a good mechanical fan.

You do all that, and you’ll be able to drive through hell and wave at satan and not worry about overheating. Even in hell.
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You talking about a jpar budget right there! Haha
Remember I'm on a tight budget lol I have a new water pump I cant remember the brand. And I have the original clutch and fan off the the 360 I just need a radiator to keep it cool in normal driving conditions I dont plan on putting it thru hell! Lol
 
Ok guys i dug my radiators out today i have this v8 rad out of a 86 dodge pickup its alot wider and a little bit taller do you think it will work? It's so far wide on the support Is there anything else that mounts out there that it will interfere? The first pic it the truck rad and the 2nd pic is my factory slant 6 rad just to show the height.

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My 69 has a B body radiator in it. Hood barely closes, it is a lot taller. Hood may be your limiting factor.
 
Mike69cuda said:
My 69 has a B body radiator in it. Hood barely closes, it is a lot taller. Hood may be your limiting factor.
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Thanks bud. I haven't put a tape on it but I looks to be about a half inch taller I guess I can put my good back on and make a test fit.
 
I would run the 22” slant rad. Get that motor in there break that bad boy in. See if it’s up to task, you can aways up grade later. It’s 4 bolts, two hoses, two lines. My 360 runs cool 180 thermostat, 22” rad. No shroud. I did by-pass the trans fluid straight to a trans cooler.
 
67/6barracuda said:
I would run the 22” slant rad. Get that motor in there break that bad boy in. See if it’s up to task, you can aways up grade later. It’s 4 bolts, two hoses, two lines. My 360 runs cool 180 thermostat, 22” rad. No shroud. I did by-pass the trans fluid straight to a trans cooler.
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That was the original plan. I was worried about running the hoses since they was on the wrong side. I was told it wouldnt keep it cool anyway so I went to get the slant radiator to take some measurements and I found the truck radiator figured I'd try and see if i could make it fit.
 
67/6barracuda said:
I would run the 22” slant rad. Get that motor in there break that bad boy in. See if it’s up to task, you can aways up grade later. It’s 4 bolts, two hoses, two lines. My 360 runs cool 180 thermostat, 22” rad. No shroud. I did by-pass the trans fluid straight to a trans cooler.
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Where did you mount the trans cooler?
 
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