CAM AND MAIN BEARINGS SHOT
Following are some answers to your questions and some additional info :
When I first started this engine after the rebuild, I still had the oil pressure gauge hooked up. The oil pressure was fine and I immediately held the RPM between 2,000 and 2,500 for 3 ten minute cycles, as recommended by the Mopar Performance cam instructions. I used break-in oil and immediately thereafter, I changed the oil to Penngrade 1, 10W40, with zinc.
In case one manufacturer of bearings is better than another: the cam bearings are listed on the invoice as Durabond PD-16. They have a groove around the first cam bearing, but there are no grooves on the rest of the cam bearings. The main bearings are listed as EPB 12-963P (I haven’t been able to find out who the manufacturer is). Both main bearing halves are identical, with the hole and the groove. The rod bearings are listed as King CR805Si. I plan on having new cam bearings installed. I will install new main bearings. Any recommendations on the best bearings? Also, why would I need new rings when these rings only have 2,500 miles on them?
I don’t know if the engine builder checked the crank saddles and camshaft bores for straightness. He did tell me he used Clevite Assembly Lube 2800-B2.
I ordered plastigage and I plan to check the main and rod bearing tolerances. Then I am once again going to reinstall the oil pump, oil pan, oil filter, cam and lifters and check the oil pressure with the drill.
I bought this 340 a few ago from a guy that said that it was in a couple different Mopars, then it sat for decades. When I tore it apart, it had all the original bearings, dated December 68. As I recall, all the bearings looked fine. I should note that one cylinder was re-sleeved, because water must have entered the cylinder, because the piston was rusted in.
The connecting rods are installed correctly, with the tangs outboard. My radiator cap is 14 lbs. I believe 16 lbs. is correct, but my seal was leaking a bit on a freshly rebuilt water pump.
I just ran across the following Forum when I looked up oil galley plugs that discusses all the plugs that should have been installed:
I’ve also attached pictures of all the oil galley plugs in this engine. Did I photograph them all?
Thanks for all of your comments. It is much appreciated.
Following are some answers to your questions and some additional info :
When I first started this engine after the rebuild, I still had the oil pressure gauge hooked up. The oil pressure was fine and I immediately held the RPM between 2,000 and 2,500 for 3 ten minute cycles, as recommended by the Mopar Performance cam instructions. I used break-in oil and immediately thereafter, I changed the oil to Penngrade 1, 10W40, with zinc.
In case one manufacturer of bearings is better than another: the cam bearings are listed on the invoice as Durabond PD-16. They have a groove around the first cam bearing, but there are no grooves on the rest of the cam bearings. The main bearings are listed as EPB 12-963P (I haven’t been able to find out who the manufacturer is). Both main bearing halves are identical, with the hole and the groove. The rod bearings are listed as King CR805Si. I plan on having new cam bearings installed. I will install new main bearings. Any recommendations on the best bearings? Also, why would I need new rings when these rings only have 2,500 miles on them?
I don’t know if the engine builder checked the crank saddles and camshaft bores for straightness. He did tell me he used Clevite Assembly Lube 2800-B2.
I ordered plastigage and I plan to check the main and rod bearing tolerances. Then I am once again going to reinstall the oil pump, oil pan, oil filter, cam and lifters and check the oil pressure with the drill.
I bought this 340 a few ago from a guy that said that it was in a couple different Mopars, then it sat for decades. When I tore it apart, it had all the original bearings, dated December 68. As I recall, all the bearings looked fine. I should note that one cylinder was re-sleeved, because water must have entered the cylinder, because the piston was rusted in.
The connecting rods are installed correctly, with the tangs outboard. My radiator cap is 14 lbs. I believe 16 lbs. is correct, but my seal was leaking a bit on a freshly rebuilt water pump.
I just ran across the following Forum when I looked up oil galley plugs that discusses all the plugs that should have been installed:
I’ve also attached pictures of all the oil galley plugs in this engine. Did I photograph them all?
Thanks for all of your comments. It is much appreciated.