Evans Coolant Temps

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So what’s the general consensus on running a pusher AND puller fan set up? In the PC world it’s seen as expensive but does increase cooling with water cooled set ups. I’m thinking I could replace one of my weak 10” pusher and put a 14” “high performance” Spal fan which would increase my cfms from 800 to 1800 a 1k increase. Could also go with a larger puller fan (11-12” with a higher cam rating) but didn’t know if a large overlap of fans would cause more issues.
Bare in mind that the temps did stay constant and even cooled a bit once I got out on the road at 40mph but heats up quick at idle. And I don’t have room for a shroud or clutch fan.
 
My fresh 505 stroker is running what I think is HOT. The Autometer gauge is reading 230 at idle with my Edelbrock ProFlo4 saying 220 at idle in my garage at idle. Large garage with the door open. Regardless of which temp I believe both seem really high to me. But before I dump the Evans stuff out for some old fashion 50/50 I wanted to see what others thought as the Evans stuff wasn't cheap.

Set up is below and kept the 440 cool before when it was a motorhome motor with some trickflow heads and a cam. Only change is the stroke, bore, gaskets, rings, cam, water pump and move to EFI

Champion 22" 4 core rad
FlowKooler High Flow pump
180 fail safe thermostat
2 10" electric fans pulling
1 16" mechanical fan with a shroud will cool that no problem. I also use Evans in my filled block 511 and it cools great with mechanical fan and water pump. I have since switched to all electric with dual 12" spal paddle fans. Will see how this works, but I think its gonna be fine. Last year I tried dual 12" spal curved blade fans and it would not cool properly, ran 218* in the heat driving. Spal has 10" paddle fans, but they only move 1100cfm each. Not enough in my opinion. I have a 26" radiator in my A body and dual 12" fans fit nice. Look at A1 Electric, they have all the Spal fans layed out with specs. Andy runs a Mechanical fan, they will cool just fine with a shroud. Oh and my 12" paddle fans move over 3200cfm together, I think that's what it will take in the heat.
 
1 16" mechanical fan with a shroud will cool that no problem. I also use Evans in my filled block 511 and it cools great with mechanical fan and water pump. I have since switched to all electric with dual 12" spal paddle fans. Will see how this works, but I think its gonna be fine. Last year I tried dual 12" spal curved blade fans and it would not cool properly, ran 218* in the heat driving. Spal has 10" paddle fans, but they only move 1100cfm each. Not enough in my opinion. I have a 26" radiator in my A body and dual 12" fans fit nice. Look at A1 Electric, they have all the Spal fans layed out with specs. Andy runs a Mechanical fan, they will cool just fine with a shroud. Oh and my 12" paddle fans move over 3200cfm together, I think that's what it will take in the heat.

I’ve been working with Evans and after days of conversations I’ve ordered a 16” Spal high performance fan pushing 2000cfm. I’ll see next week but I’m tapped out on the pulling side with the 2 10” fans so hopefully this pusher does it. If not then it’s off to spend more money on a new radiator.
 
I’ve been working with Evans and after days of conversations I’ve ordered a 16” Spal high performance fan pushing 2000cfm. I’ll see next week but I’m tapped out on the pulling side with the 2 10” fans so hopefully this pusher does it. If not then it’s off to spend more money on a new radiator.
Should have put your hard earned money into a new radiator.
3 electric fans
2 pulling
1 pushing
Who's taking beats I want in on this.
 
Should have put your hard earned money into a new radiator.
3 electric fans
2 pulling
1 pushing
Who's taking beats I want in on this.

no pullers with the single pusher that cost me $100. If it works great if not guess what it will find it’s way on a different project. But rather than taking bets feel free to donate to my radiator fund if you want man.
 
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You have a junk radiator. Sometimes you get a good one, you didn't. You need more (better) radiator and more air flow. I bet a Griffin 2 row will solve your issues even with the tiny little fans you have.......but then you'll have a radiator that's 1/2 the width of what you have now with room for more fan too.
 
no pullers with the single pusher that cost me $100. If it works great if not guess what it will find it’s way on a different project. But rather than taking bets feel free to donate to my radiator fund if you want man.
Sorry Dude I have already funded to many cooling systems. LOL
Buy the best you can get your hands on and oh by the way Buy American Products.

Barracuda new 340 002.JPG
 
My fresh 505 stroker is running what I think is HOT. The Autometer gauge is reading 230 at idle with my Edelbrock ProFlo4 saying 220 at idle in my garage at idle. Large garage with the door open. Regardless of which temp I believe both seem really high to me. But before I dump the Evans stuff out for some old fashion 50/50 I wanted to see what others thought as the Evans stuff wasn't cheap.

Set up is below and kept the 440 cool before when it was a motorhome motor with some trickflow heads and a cam. Only change is the stroke, bore, gaskets, rings, cam, water pump and move to EFI

Champion 22" 4 core rad
FlowKooler High Flow pump
180 fail safe thermostat
2 10" electric fans pulling
I use an Engineered Cooling Products radiator. Its a 26" radiator that I squeezed into an A body. They have true 1" cooling tubes and are 2 row. $250.
 
I use an Engineered Cooling Products radiator. Its a 26" radiator that I squeezed into an A body. They have true 1" cooling tubes and are 2 row. $250.

Do you have a picture you could post up? In my head going to. 26” seems like it would be a ton of work but a picture and some advice would really help.
 
Do you have a picture you could post up? In my head going to. 26” seems like it would be a ton of work but a picture and some advice would really help.
You will have to do some minor trimming with an angle grinder, but it will fit.

RAD-6375S-Diagram_zps50078365.jpg


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023.JPG
 
Just looked at the picture you posted...that’s a small block no wonder you have a ton of room and no cooling issues with the baby motor :)
Yes sadly the 3 BBM equipped cars I had are gone but not forgotten. I always wanted a Barracuda since I was a kid so I had to sacrifice my 512 powered Satellite to get one.
I posted the pic of my current rig to show you what a Griffin Exact fit looks like in place.
I am sure that they are other American made radiators out there that work I have just not had to try anything else.
 
Did you take a little from both sizes or all from one so you could keep the factory mounting on one side?
you will only have to trim the mounting flange on radiator on pass side only. Measure your radiator mounting area and observe the measures in the pic I sent. You will see how easy it will fit with a little trimming
 
you will only have to trim the mounting flange on radiator on pass side only. Measure your radiator mounting area and observe the measures in the pic I sent. You will see how easy it will fit with a little trimming

Will do. Just wish I had known I would have these cooling issues earlier. The motor whole k member was out of the car for 5 months this winter. Had plenty of room to mod then.
 
Will do. Just wish I had known I would have these cooling issues earlier. The motor whole k member was out of the car for 5 months this winter. Had plenty of room to mod then.
The factory mounting I doubt will line up, mine didn't.
 
As I stated earlier the cooling system must be much more efficient or oversized compared to stock to use a less efficient heat transfer medium (Evans) than the water based liquid it was designed for. If it’s not transferring the heat into the air as effectively as water based coolant you can be sure it’s not absorbing the heat as effectively inside the water jackets inside the engine and those temperatures are higher than with a more efficient heat transfer medium.

Something else to think about when changing to electrical fans, all of our older cars weren’t designed like the cars produced in the last dozen or so years with air dams and such to create negative pressure behind the radiator or direct airflow through the radiator. The mechanical fan was there and created the negative pressure or the pulling effect to cause the airflow through the radiator while moving down the road especially at lower speeds.

With these two changes you have greatly reduced the efficiency of the cooling system.


It’s not the Evans coolant that’s making it run hot. Not even close.
 
As Rusty said above, you radiator is junk. 4 cores is the first problem. You need a 2 core with at least a 1.000 tube.

Then you need a high flow water pump. If you already have that, that’s good. I may have missed it.

I know Evans is big on not running a thermostat, but if the rest of the system is correct, you’ll have to run one to get some heat in the engine. As PRH posted, the Stewart Components is about the best there is. A 180 degree thermostat is plenty hot.

Next on the list is pump speed. You need, at the very minimum, the water pump turning crank speed. That is 1:1 at the very minimum. If you can get the water pump turning 10% or 15% faster than crank speed you’ll be much better off.

Leave the Evans coolant in there. It’s not the problem. The wrong radiator, and getting the pump speed where is should be will fix 99% of your issues.
 
As Rusty said above, you radiator is junk. 4 cores is the first problem. You need a 2 core with at least a 1.000 tube.

Then you need a high flow water pump. If you already have that, that’s good. I may have missed it.

I know Evans is big on not running a thermostat, but if the rest of the system is correct, you’ll have to run one to get some heat in the engine. As PRH posted, the Stewart Components is about the best there is. A 180 degree thermostat is plenty hot.

Next on the list is pump speed. You need, at the very minimum, the water pump turning crank speed. That is 1:1 at the very minimum. If you can get the water pump turning 10% or 15% faster than crank speed you’ll be much better off.

Leave the Evans coolant in there. It’s not the problem. The wrong radiator, and getting the pump speed where is should be will fix 99% of your issues.
I agree, with my mechanical Milodon
pump, I used a 5.5" crank pulley with a 4.5" water pump pulley.
 
Where are you guy finding different sizes water pump pullies? I tried the usually places, Mancini, 440 source, summit, and found only the “stock” size.
 
The Evans coolant alone maybe maybe not but it certainly isn’t helping the situation being the heat transfer of the coolant is less efficient.
While not who you were replying to Evans does admit to the fact that the car would run about 20-30 degrees cooler if I put in straight water with a bottle of pump lubricant. The counter point is their coolant won’t boil until a really high temperature (325 I think) and that gives more temperature headroom as there won’t be cavitation or air bubbles by the head.
 
The Evans coolant alone maybe maybe not but it certainly isn’t helping the situation being the heat transfer of the coolant is less efficient.


Really? I know that’s what Evans says, but of the cooling system is right, the temp stays the same.

I’d never go back to anything other than Evans. It’s expensive, but it works. Doesn’t require any system pressure to raise the boiling point.

Water may transfer heat better than anything else, but that doesn’t make it a good coolant. Don’t get caught up in the “heat transfer” crap. It’s like the argument of aluminum verses cast iron and more CR for aluminum nonsense.
 
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