Bump steer question
For comparison, this is a car lowered 1" with stock spindles...
It's pretty hard to read, the original chart is listed here as well as a chart for the B or FMJ spindles https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0503-swapping-a-and-b-disc-brake-spindles/
With numbers like yours there's something pretty dramatic going on. You should be able to lower the car and change the caster and camber pretty significantly without inducing numbers like that. When you were installing those suspension parts did you also replace the lower control arm bushings? Check the K frame for cracks or damage, especially at the LCA pivot tubes? What procedure did you use to determine the length on the adjustable strut rods?
As for the CAP upper control arms, those things are garbage. If your plan is to run Hotchkis UCA's, install those before you put it back on the street. CAP UCA's have failed catastrophically due to poor welds.
Do you have your current alignment numbers?
For comparison, this is a car lowered 1" with stock spindles...
It's pretty hard to read, the original chart is listed here as well as a chart for the B or FMJ spindles https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0503-swapping-a-and-b-disc-brake-spindles/
With numbers like yours there's something pretty dramatic going on. You should be able to lower the car and change the caster and camber pretty significantly without inducing numbers like that. When you were installing those suspension parts did you also replace the lower control arm bushings? Check the K frame for cracks or damage, especially at the LCA pivot tubes? What procedure did you use to determine the length on the adjustable strut rods?
As for the CAP upper control arms, those things are garbage. If your plan is to run Hotchkis UCA's, install those before you put it back on the street. CAP UCA's have failed catastrophically due to poor welds.
Do you have your current alignment numbers?