TTI Header install issues

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simman900

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Brooksville fl
Hello everyone. I purchased a set of tti headers for my 1972 Dodge Dart. Engine is a 360 stroked to 408 with aluminum heads. The drivers side header almost fits but hits the steering coupler. Passenger side hits everything. I found out I have to lift the motor up to install these headers. It sure would have been nice to know I had to do all this before I spent the extra money on these tti headers thinking they would flop right in. When I looked them up on line and did all the research, everyone and everything I read said they would fit without any issues. Anyways, I will be lifting the engine tomorrow to install these headers, does anyone know if I need to remove the passenger side torsion bar?? I got bad info from the place I bought them from. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Good headers never “flop right in”. Only junk headers do that.

I find it hard to believe the TTI instructions don’t cover installation.
 
I can't recall ever installing any set of headers on any Mopar where you didn't have to disconnect a bunch of stuff and also lift the engine off the mounts for the install. I think TTI does a good job with instructions... what do they tell you to do? Production tolerances on these cars are all over the place, so shimming one and/or both motor mounts might be necessary. You may also have to get rid of the factory steering coupler and replace it with a Borgeson or Flaming River U-joint.
 
Hello everyone. I purchased a set of tti headers for my 1972 Dodge Dart. Engine is a 360 stroked to 408 with aluminum heads. The drivers side header almost fits but hits the steering coupler. Passenger side hits everything. I found out I have to lift the motor up to install these headers. It sure would have been nice to know I had to do all this before I spent the extra money on these tti headers thinking they would flop right in. When I looked them up on line and did all the research, everyone and everything I read said they would fit without any issues. Anyways, I will be lifting the engine tomorrow to install these headers, does anyone know if I need to remove the passenger side torsion bar?? I got bad info from the place I bought them from. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello,
sorry, i don't know how to help you. my car with the 440 manners and with the 2 inch TTI manifolds, a real disaster. driver side, it affects the torsion bar, steering box, starter. passenger side torsion bar. it is a very low model for the road, my opinion.
 
I sure am sorry for your frustrations, BUT if you looked everywhere and saw they flop right in, you didn't look very hard AT ALL. Lots of horror stories right here on this forum about how 1K dollar headers just don't fit. Some legitimate gripes (perhaps like yours) some not. I say some not because sometimes motor mounts sag, the engine needs to be moved over one way or another or some other "small" problem that's not the header design fault. More often than not, I've seen where people have to ding here or bend there for them to fit. IMO that's just not acceptable for headers that cost so damned much. Good luck. I hope you get it sorted out.
 
Good headers never “flop right in”. Only junk headers do that.

I find it hard to believe the TTI instructions don’t cover installation.
Yes they did come with directions but was told before hand that they would fit right in. It’s ok I was just surprised when they wouldn’t go right in.

Thanks
 
What engine mounts, spool or biscuit? Mine had the 73 K frame w/spool type mounts; right side went right in. I removed the steering column and had to lift the car higher to install the left side. Went in like butter save for a few scratches. Guess I got lucky.
 
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Something you mentioned is you have aluminum heads, there is also a possibility that they are not machined the same as OEM cast iron heads, adding to your frustration.

Like Windows OS there are so many possibilities of hardware and software it is a wonder that it works at all
 
I sure am sorry for your frustrations, BUT if you looked everywhere and saw they flop right in, you didn't look very hard AT ALL. Lots of horror stories right here on this forum about how 1K dollar headers just don't fit. Some legitimate gripes (perhaps like yours) some not. I say some not because sometimes motor mounts sag, the engine needs to be moved over one way or another or some other "small" problem that's not the header design fault. More often than not, I've seen where people have to ding here or bend there for them to fit. IMO that's just not acceptable for headers that cost so damned much. Good luck. I hope you get it sorted out.
Yeah we will get it worked out. You would think for what it cost they would be a much better fit. They sure look like a good quality header. Thanks
 
Something you mentioned is you have aluminum heads, there is also a possibility that they are not machined the same as OEM cast iron heads, adding to your frustration.

Like Windows OS there are so many possibilities of hardware and software it is a wonder that it works at all
I hope that’s not the case. They should fit right up to them. I checked the figment catalog for the heads.
 
What engine mounts, spool or biscuit? Mine had the 73 K frame w/spool type mounts; right side went right in. I removed the steering column and had to lift the car higher to install the left side. Went in like butter save for a few scratches. Guess I got lucky.
Yeah we will let the engine tomorrow and tilt maybe.
 
What engine mounts, spool or biscuit? Mine had the 73 K frame w/spool type mounts; right side went right in. I removed the steering column and had to lift the car higher to install the left side. Went in like butter save for a few scratches. Guess I got lucky.
They are biscuit mounts.
 
My buddy used Maddog headers 2" tube 3.5" collectors and they fit perfect, the center 2 tubes are together and the ends tubes are separate and made it easy to put in but you are not changing the starter with the header in there.
This was a 67 barracuda 498" RB motor, unfortunately Maddog wont make headers for Mopar A body BB any more.
 
Headers can be a real pain,no matter who's.
I had to raise my engine some to get them in, and also if the torsion bars are out helps too. Just work at it slowly and they will fit.
 
I know this from experience
If you have power steering you'll want to drop the column and move the steering shaft out of the way... the starter wiring may or may not be in the way you'll definitely have to take the center link out of the way or at least drop it off of steering box at the Pitman. Pass side if you have a Lakewood bell..it interferes, the 90 degree oil filter may need re clocked...definitely removed for install of header...should clear the torsion bar fine..close though. 4 spd z bar needs arm moved over an inch and it just clears as it travels next to starter...hence the wiring in the way somewhat.

I lifted mine and removed the motor brackets as well to make it easier to get them up forward and in place... they basically like have to wiggle around some stuff so where you think it doesn't fit it just needs more room somewhere else to get up and around it and in place where it will fit fine. I'll look but I think only hammering needed was for bell housing pass side. I think I used a .080 thick hard washer on each side to get it off the box and or torsion on pass side. Motor torques away from bar fyi.
 
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I sure am sorry for your frustrations, BUT if you looked everywhere and saw they flop right in, you didn't look very hard AT ALL. Lots of horror stories right here on this forum about how 1K dollar headers just don't fit. Some legitimate gripes (perhaps like yours) some not. I say some not because sometimes motor mounts sag, the engine needs to be moved over one way or another or some other "small" problem that's not the header design fault. More often than not, I've seen where people have to ding here or bend there for them to fit. IMO that's just not acceptable for headers that cost so damned much. Good luck. I hope you get it sorted out.


in my case I am quite satisfied with TTI readers. but it is always very difficult for me to buy a part by e-mail, I do not understand English, the price once the part arrived in Belgium costs 3 more expensive than in the USA. And when the part does not fit easily, I am simply sad.
 
in my case I am quite satisfied with TTI readers. but it is always very difficult for me to buy a part by e-mail, I do not understand English, the price once the part arrived in Belgium costs 3 more expensive than in the USA. And when the part does not fit easily, I am simply sad.

I can certainly see being sad over three times the cost. I would be a lot more than sad.
 
Other than the shipping costs who is getting the 3x price. Taxes? Import fees?
 
Other than the shipping costs who is getting the 3x price. Taxes? Import fees?

packaging costs for export, taxes, customs, transport in Belgium. When I lived in Brazil it was the same thing, always very expensive. I always dream of opening a garage in the USA. But this is another story...
 
Other than the shipping costs who is getting the 3x price. Taxes? Import fees?

with customs, I never understand the way to calculate. a small box they will calculate by weight, a large and light box they will calculate by volume.
 
Sounds like your elected officials need to be replaced. ( Ours too!)
 
Thou this doesn’t help your situation. I have found thru pure accident, that with a RMS coil over and front mounted P/S rack that the. TTI’s I installed on my 416 68 Barracuda were an absolute dream to install. Only way I’ll ever put headers on any car in the future.
 
this is the easiest way. This was a 4 spd car with factory clutch linkage. Z bar modifications were required. This would have really sucked putting them in while the engine is in the car.

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in my case I am quite satisfied with TTI readers. but it is always very difficult for me to buy a part by e-mail, I do not understand English, the price once the part arrived in Belgium costs 3 more expensive than in the USA. And when the part does not fit easily, I am simply sad.

I like seeing muscle car owners in Europe! I can imagine how difficult it is getting parts.

I was stationed in England 1987-1990 and only saw two American muscle cars. A Camero and a Nova.

I'm sure you get a lot of looks when you drive your Mopar!!
 
Thou this doesn’t help your situation. I have found thru pure accident, that with a RMS coil over and front mounted P/S rack that the. TTI’s I installed on my 416 68 Barracuda were an absolute dream to install. Only way I’ll ever put headers on any car in the future.

I know this wont help, but -----------Its important to have the engine located right to start with !
 
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